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The Havanese is a Bichon Group breed, that includes Bichon Frise, Bolognese, Coton de Tulear, Lowchen and Maltese The Havanese is a lively small dog, toy dog that were bred to be good companions, so are good with children. They love to have attention and will do many things to attract it. This requirement for attention means they are not the choice for a working couple. They will often follow owners around the flat, however they are not possessive of their “friends”, so are good with other animals and dogs. They often like to eat with someone in the room, so stay there when they are eating, otherwise they may take their food with them and eat it as they walk, which can be messy. They are a “ true dog”, playing games such as football with all their strength. Like many toy dogs, they do not require long walks, but they do love attention. Professional dog trainers such as London Dog Training love them, as they are so responsive to positive reinforcement.

For dog care they are straightforward. They do not shed much, so whilst not strictly non-allegenic, they may be suitable for a family with an allergic member.

The Havanese have a slight wavy double coat, which is soft and light, with a denser undercoat.

The Havanese should be groomed every day, as they have the tendency for their fur to mat. If not a show dog, you can trim the coat. Whilst they have a good coat, it is a coat to keep the hot sun off the body, not warmth inside, so in some areas you may need to buy sweaters for them.

When you bath them, dry with a towel and allow them to dry off naturally inside, as they are susceptible to skin problems if dried with a hair drier. It is a breed that for showing needs to keep a natural look, but for everyday looks and practicality may benefit from bows etc..

They now come in many different colours and patterns, but were originally white.
They have a robust appearance relative to other toy dog breeds. They have a weight range of normally five Kgs ( roughly 12 lbs). Its height measured at the withers is around 250mm( 9-11 inches). The back raises from the withers to the rump which is unusual in dogs.

They move with an agile springy gait. Whilst they are relatively good swimmers, they generally shire away from water, but careful when near water if there is something for them to chase.

They have almond eyes, with average sized ears that are well covered and hang down. The Havanese are disposed to ear infections, so regularly inspect their ears and clean them. Sometimes they may require their inner hairs to be plucked by tweezers or hand. The tail sweeps over the back and is also well covered. They have very sensitive noses and are trained in some countries for search. They are easily trainable so are often used in circus shows, tracking, hearing assistance dogs, mould, termite and drug search.

They generally live fourteen to sixteen years. Like many other pure breeds they suffer from a few genetically-linked disorders. These include liver disease, heart disease, cataracts and retinal dysplasia (dots and streak on the retina). It is recommended only to buy Havanese from parent dogs who have clear eye certificates. Havanese may develop brown tear stains, which is especially noticeable on those with white or light coats.

The dog was bred from the now extent Bichon Tenerife and was taken to Cuba by original settlers and traders. Being popular in Havana in Cuba. Globally the Havanese is a relatively recent breed, rapidly growing in the seventies from only ten animals in the USA. They were common in Cuba, prior to the revolution, but suffered afterwards. It is now one of the fastest growing registrations in most country kennel clubs. For this reason it may be difficult to acquire one, so the best of luck on finding one.

A wonderful family dog that should be considered.

The Maltese is a small toy group dog breed with silky white hair that is lively and intelligent and very cuddly, so makes a great pet for city living. Though if living in a condo, you will need to take them out for regular walks or use professional dog walkers such as London dog walking  The fur will grow long, so a good idea is to give them a puppy cut, otherwise the hair becomes difficult to manage.
The Maltese have dark round shaped large eyes. Whilst the Maltese is petite, about eight and 10 inches high, it is sturdy and weighs around three and 8 pounds ( one and a half to 3 kilograms). The dog care of a Maltese is relatively straightforward. They are fairly long lived, up to around 15 years.
 
The Maltese is often devoted to its owners, which means they have a reputation for barking at strange noises and people. Their high activity level can also lead to them snapping. Dog socialisation at an early age is crucial to removing this problem. They are courageous and will approach dogs far bigger than themselves, being secure they mix well with other pets.
The Maltese suffers from a small number of health problems, that includes skin, eye and teeth problems. In addition respiratory problems and risk of sunburn on the top of its nose.
A routine of brushing is needed with the Maltese, otherwise you will get matted fur. As well as brushing twice a day, one should also clean the Maltese after every meal, to reduce hair staining. Tear staining is also a common problem which is related to the size of the tear ducts and how much the Maltese’s eyes water.  Tear stain can be removed or minimised by using regularly a metal fine-toothed comb that is moistened with lukewarm water and drawn through the hair below the eyes. This should be done every two days.
The Maltese have thick hair, they do not shed very much and like the comparable Havanese and Bichon Frisé will not give as much allergic reaction to people as other dog breeds. A lot of will keep the hair out of the eyes by the use of a ponytail to ease cleaning the eyes. It is important also to regularly clean the Maltese’s ears.
Whilst the name suggests the dog comes from Malta, its origins are not clear, though generally felt to come from Italy / Greece. It is sometimes called a Maltese Terrier or the Maltese Lion Dog ( a reflection on its character), though its official kennel name is “Maltese”.

Its origin could have been either from the Swiss Spitz dog or the Asian Tibetan Terrier. Its earliest record of the Maltese dates back to when it was found on a Greek amphora around 500 B. C. and is often mentioned in Greek / Roman writings.

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Poor bladder control is the number one cause for puppies being taken to abandoned dog charities. It is often frustrating and often professional dog walkers such as London Dog Walking are often asked to give advice, so a key part of puppy care. Experts believe the best method is to use a cage. Normally a breeder will {use a cratehave used one}, and will often sell on the crate, as the puppy is used to it. This is based on the premise that dogs do not like to mess their beds and in a crate would be forced to sleep in the mess. This method also has the advantage of encouraging the puppy will try to control their bladder. Young puppies from 7 weeks or so should last around 8 hours. During toilet training, leave the puppy inside the crate when he cannot be supervised, whilst you are say bathing the children. Just prior to putting pup into the crate or taking him out of the crate, take him outside so he can go to the toilet. There should not be any water or food in the crate, just a blanket and maybe a chew toy to occupy his time. As your confidence with your puppy increases, you can leave him more and more out of the cage.
The crate needs to have the right dimensions, enough floor area for him to lie down. But not so large he could urinate in a corner. The crate is useful for the dogs whole life, so to avoid replacing crated as he grows, buy one big enough for his full grown size, with a partition that you can move as he grows.
The two alternatives to crate toilet training a puppy are constant supervision, not many people have the time for this. To do this, you need to be with pup constantly, so you can be ready when you see his pre-potty pattern, such as clawing the carpet. Then taking him directly to his potty area, then bring him straight back, having him praise and verbal clues such as “good dog”. The puppy needs to appreciate the reason he was taken outside was for the potty, nothing else, do not confuse him.

The other alternative to toilet training is put down papers or pre-treated pads, encouraging them to use these papers, often positioned in the bathroom or utility room. The pads have chemicals to attract the puppy. When you catch with their pre-toilet behavior, pick them up quietly and carry them to the pad. Praise them if they do the business. The main disadvantage with this method, is you have to transition them to doing this outside, by moving the papers closer to the door.
Potty timing, generally, pups should to go out, soon after waking and around 40 mins after having been fed.
Occasionally pups will spontaneously urinate when excited or scared, sometimes known as submissive urination. Do not punish them for this. If they are liable to this, take them for a walk, prior to any excitement, like friends coming. Or if visiting, take them for a walk, just prior to, or when you arrive. The puppy will normally grow out it after about 6 months.
To strengthen the toilet training, as in dog training, you should to use verbal clues. Great ones are simple and distinctive. Everybody in the family or in contact with the dog, such as your dog walkers and the pet sitter need to use the same words. One or a maximum of two words.
Outside: For going outside, to go to the toilet. Use a different word such as “play” if its for more of an enjoyable activity, though he may eliminate when he is there.
Potty: Do the business.
Good Dog: For praise – any.
No: When the puppy is doing something wrong, such as going in the wrong area, or inside.
Two rules:
1. Praise success always.
2. Never punish the puppy, if you do not catch him in the act of doing something wrong. The puppy will have no idea why you are punishing him.

If you see him urinating inside, carry him to the place, will often stop him, as well as reinforcing what he should be doing.

Poor bladder control is the number one cause for dogs being taken to dog shelter charities. It is often difficult and often professional dog walkers such as London Dog Walking are often asked to give advice, so a key part of puppy care. The general consensus as to the best method is to use a crate. Normally a breeder will {use a cagehave used one}, and will often sell on the crate, as the puppy is used to it. The crate method is based on the principle that puppies do not like to mess their beds and in a crate would be forced to lie in the mess. Whilst in these confines the puppy will try to manage their bladder. Young pups from 8 weeks or so should last about 8 hours. During potty training, put the puppy inside the cage whenever he cannot be watched, whilst you are say reading to the children. Just prior to placing pup into the crate or taking him out of the cage, take him outside so he can do his business. There should never be any water or food in the crate, just a blanket and perhaps a chew toy to occupy his time. As your confidence with your puppy increases, you can leave the puppy for longer periods out of the crate.
The crate needs to be right size, enough floor area for him to lie down. But not so large he could urinate in a corner. The cage is essential for the dogs whole life, so to avoid replacing crated as he grows, purchase one big enough for his full grown size, with a partition that you can move as he grows.
The two alternatives to cage potty training a puppy are constant supervision, which in today’s busy life is too difficult for most people. This involves being with pup all the time, so you can be ready when you see his pre-potty pattern, such as clawing the carpet. Then taking him directly to his potty area, then return him straight back, having him praise and verbal clues such as “good dog”. The puppy needs to appreciate the reason he was taken outside was for the toilet, nothing else, do not baffle him.

The other alternative to toilet training is put down papers or pre-treated pads, encouraging the pup to use these areas, often positioned in the bathroom or utility room. The papers have chemicals to draw the pup. When you observe with their pre- potty behavior, pick them up calmly and take them to the papers. Praise them if they do the business. The problem with this method, is you have to do a second training to doing this outside, by moving the papers closer to the door.
Toilet timing, normally, puppies need to go out, soon after waking and 30 or 40 mins after having been fed.
Sometimes dogs will spontaneously urinate when excited or scared, also known as submissive urination. Do not punish the puppy for this. If the puppy is liable to this, go for a walk, prior to any excitement, like friends coming. Or if visiting, take them for a walk, just prior to, or when you arrive. The puppy will normally grow out it after 4-8 months.
To reinforce the potty training, as in dog training, you should to use verbal clues. Great ones are simple and distinctive. Everybody in the family or in contact with the dog, such as your dog walkers and the pet sitter need to use the same words. One or a maximum of two words.
Outside: For going outside, to go to the potty. Use a different word such as “play” if its for more of an enjoyable activity, though he may go to the toilet when he is there.
Potty: Go to the toilet.
Good Dog: For any praise to give him.
No: When the puppy is doing anything wrong, such as going in the wrong area, or inside.
Two rules:
1. Always praise success.
2. Do not punish the puppy, if you do not see him in the act of doing something wrong. He will have no idea why you are punishing him.

If you see the puppy in the act of urinating inside, carry him to the place, will often stop him, as well as reinforcing what he should be doing.

The Havanese is one of the Bichon type breeds, that includes Bichon Frise, Bolognese, Coton de Tulear, Lowchen and Maltese The Havanese is a good-humoured small dog, toy dog that were bred to be good companions, so are good with children. They like to have peoples notice and will do tricks to catch peoples attention. This love for attention means they are not the choice for a working couple. They will often follow owners around the house, but are rarely overly possessive of their “ family”, so are great with other dogs, pets and other animals. They often like to eat with someone in the room, so stay there when they are eating, otherwise they may take their food with them and eat it as they walk, which can be messy. They are a “ true dog”, playing games such as tug of war with gusto. Like many toy dogs, they do not require long walks, but they do love attention. Professional Dog Walkers such as London Dog Walking, if doing grouped walks will pair them with similar dogs, rather than big energetic dogs.

For dog care they are relatively simple. One advantage of the Havanese is that they do not shed much. You may see on lists that they do not shed, this misleading as all hair follicles will have a cycle of growing and dying, shedding it hair, but this is variable and not often, so there is no strong cycle of hair shedding. The coat catches the hair and dander internally, so many people think it is non-allergenic, but they all release dander that can aggravate allergies. If you have an allergy sufferer in the house, have one to stay for a few days to check.

The Havanese has a slight wavy double coat, which is soft and light, with a denser undercoat.

The Havanese should ideally be brushed every day, as the fur has a tendency to mat. If not a show dog, you can trim the coat. Whilst they have a good coat, they do suffer in extreme cold, so in some areas you may need to buy sweaters for them.

When you bath them, dry with a towel and allow them to dry off naturally inside, as they are susceptible to skin problems if dried with a hair drier. It is a breed that for showing needs to keep a natural look, but for everyday looks and practicality may benefit from bows etc..

The original Harvanese were white, but now they occur in all types of coat colours and patterns.
The Havanese has  a sturdy appearance compared to most toy dog breeds. They have a weight range of about five Kgs ( 10-15 lbs). Its height measured at the withers is 220-290mm( roughly 10). It is an unusual dog in that the rump is higher than the shoulders.

They have a sprightly agile movement. They are good swimmers, but many of them do not like swimming, but be prudent when near waterparticularly if there are birds for them to run after.

They have almond eyes, with medium sized ears that are well covered and hang down. The Havanese are susceptible to infections and diseases of the ear, so regularly inspect their ears and clean them. From time to time they may require their inner hairs to be pulled by hand or tweezers. The tail arches over the back and is also well covered. They have very sensitive noses and are trained in some countries for search. They are easily trained so are often used in circus shows, tracking, hearing assistance dogs, mould, termite and drug search.

The Havanese routinely live around fourteen years. Like many other pure breeds they suffer from a  few genetically-linked disorders. The most common being liver disease, heart disease, cataracts and retinal dysplasia ( blots on the retina). It is advisable only to acquire Havanese from parent dogs who have clear eye certificates. Havanese sometimes develop brown tear stains, which is especially noticeable on those with white or light coats.

The dog originated from the now extent Bichon Tenerife and was taken to Havana by original settlers and traders. Being popular in Havana in Cuba. Internationally the Havanese is a new breed, taking off in the seventies from only 10 animals in the United States. Though they were common prior to the Cuban Revolution, they, like many trappings of aristocracy were culled. Rapid growth in popularity now makes it difficult to find a puppy.

A great family dog that should be considered.

It is always a headache when it comes to sorting out suitable care for your dog whilst you are away on holiday or even for a long weekend. It is so very important to know that they are being well cared for.

One thing to consider is would it be better for the dog to be in the company of other dogs or would it possibly be best to have someone who is prepared to house sit and look after the dog. There are quite a few people who offer this service nowadays. At least if the dog is at home there will be no upheaval from his usual routine and therefore he would feel more secure without you.

If your dog has a medical problem, for instance arthritis or diabetes then it might be a good idea to get in contact your vet to see if they have anyone that they can recommend. Ask friends and members of the family if they have anyone that they can recommend. A follow up call to find out if they were pleased with the care of their pets is always a good idea.

If using a boarding kennel always request a tour of the place before you make a commitment. Always check for overall cleanliness, friendliness of the staff and check out their knowledge of animals regarding their feeding and exercise etc.

Its best to ask to take a look inside the kennel that your dog would be allocated. Make sure that it is really clean and hygenic and that means the actual bedding etc. Most kennels nowadays have special heavy duty washing machines to help cope with the continual turnaround of the animal bedding etc. These are similar to veterinary laundry equipment which again is designed specially for heavy duty washing requirements.

If however you opt for the first choice of having the pet carer come to your home then make sure you follow up on references and it would be a good idea to introduce them to your pet before you go away. Some important points to look for are good empathy with the animal and a willingness to adapt to their schedule.

Finally make sure that your pet’s vaccinations are up to date well in advance for your holiday.