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Posts Tagged ‘equine’

Groundwork exercises are important but mostly straightforward and can be used when training either your own horse or a horse you are training. It is important to get these exercises right first, as this is how you and the horse will become familiar with each other and build a trusting relationship. All future training depends on first performing good groundwork exercises. It is important for your safety that your new ton-sized friend is taught to respect your personal space bubble.

The key to success in horse training is to be patient, persistent and to employ positive reinforcement techniques in every exercise you perform together. These are the 3 P’s of basic horse training that will serve you well no matter what level you are training or what you might be training for in the future.

1. Groom your horse. When grooming your horse you are actually performing an important exercise in groundwork training. You’ll get to know each other. Standing beside your horse, brush his back and neck. At this time it is common for horses to come around with their teeth and give you a little love bite. While horses do this to each other all the time, naturally they cannot do it to humans. Just wave your hand or push the head back to straight ahead position to discourage this. Horses have enormous teeth so it is important for your safety that you let him know that this is unacceptable. It’s important to stay calm and be patient. It will not take long for him to cooperate once he gets the idea. It will do you no good to panic, stress, smack your horse or get otherwise agitated. This will only set you back with your trust levels.

2. Lead your horse. With the lead rope in your right hand, walk beside your horse on his left side while holding the rope just below his chin. Step forward and walk slowly. He should not try to go ahead of you but should remain at your right side. If he tries to go ahead just walk around him to your left in a circle. Do this as many times as necessary. Be persistent. Use the circular movement to stay just ahead of him, where you should be. If, on the other hand, your horse doesn’t want to walk with you, stand slightly behind at his shoulder facing the same direction. Hold the rope close to his chin and push forward. Once he takes a step, praise him and use your positive reinforcement skills. When he starts to walk willingly, take your place slightly ahead of him and walk on. Never wrap the lead rope around any part of yourself – this is for your own safety. If the horse decides to bolt you’ll be going along and it will not be pretty.

3. Lunge your horse.This is a fantastic exercise which the vast majority of horse owners and certainly all horse trainers will use to teach their horse about what is expected. Lunging will teach many of the skills and commands, or cues, your horse will need to know when you’re ready to work him under saddle.

In a large open area (an arena works, too, if you don’t have a round enclosure) clip your horse to a lunge lead specifically for lunging. This will be 30 ft long (approximately 10m), much longer than the short lead rope you use for the lead exercise. Clip the lead to the horse’s left halter side and hold the lead in your left hand. Face your horse’s left side to begin, whilst holding the lunge rope. In your right hand hold a lunge whip; this is to guide him along. Now step to your right sideways toward the rear of the horse while holding the whip out behind him. The natural reaction will be for the horse to step forward. Make a kissing sound as you let out the lunge lead and follow him just behind and to the left. He’ll begin to associate that sound with “move forward”. As you’re turning and the horse moves in a circle around you, hold the whip slightly behind his hindquarters. You do not use the whip for hitting. You only need to wave it just a little to get his attention.

Move yourself slowly backwards to the centre as the horse is moving forwards. As the horse walks around you in a circle, stand in the middle with the lunge rope fully extended. Watch your horse’s hip area as he’s going round.

This is the perfect time to teach your horse to understand “whoa”. In a low, calm voice, say the word “whoooaa”. At the same time, step toward your horse’s head and repeat the word. Be sure to give him a neck rub with lots of praise when he stops. You will help him remember what to do through this positive reinforcement.

You can now change position so that you are lunging your horse anti-clockwise. It’s done in the same way, but with the lead clipped to the right side of the halter and the lunge whip in the left hand.

These exercises are simple ways to get you started when traiing your horse. Remember always how big and powerful a horse actually is. This alone should be enough to remind you to have adequate horse insurance in place should either you or your equine be injured. Safety and trust is crucial to your success in training ventures and in all future activities. As well as a loyal friend, your horse is also an investment, so remember to protect that investment against theft, accident or misadventure by making sure you compare horse insurance policies to ensure you are getting the best level of cover for both of your needs.

The ultimate goal if you wish to ride is to achieve success in saddle training; however, it is necessary to do the groundwork first. Before riding, your horse will need to be led to where you will tack up. You can’t begin to teach point B if you’ve not first mastered how to get there from point A. The two of you can only act as a team if your horse cooperates with you. This cooperation begins with your ability to approach, catch, and halter him first. Then you’ll need to lead your horse about with a halter and a lead rope.

With the primary objective of safety in mind, your horse needs to learn what is acceptable behaviour. Although it is natural for him to pull against the lead rope, for example, he must be taught not to do so. A horse should never be allowed to invade the personal space of whoever is holding the lead rope. Accidents can easily occur if proper consideration to teaching basic safety manners to your horse is not given before moving on to more advanced training. Whilst a good equine insurance policy may cover you for accidents that happen in training, it’s obviously far more preferable not to have to find this out!

Lead training requires the use of patience, persistence and positive reinforcement – the essential three Ps of horse training. Having already accomplished haltering, it is likely that you have already discovered the effectiveness of the three Ps.

It is a good idea to begin lead training when the horse is still a foal. You don’t need to teach a very young horse about saddles and riding, of course, but don’t leave the basic ground manners until he is older. The young horse will need to cooperate for farrier and vet visits, as well as for the various people moving about the yard, stables or paddock.

If you happen to have the dam – the foal’s mother – present, lead training will be easier as he will naturally copy her behaviours. Don’t worry if the dam is not present, as it works as well with any horse which the foal spends time with. A young horse will naturally learn from his elders. For example, you don’t need to teach a horse in the pasture how to graze or go to the water and drink. They learn to do this by watching the other horses in the herd. If your student is older, you can still use another horse’s example by haltering and leading the other horse first. Horses notice everything that goes on around them – particularly if it involves other horses within the herd – so you can be sure that your student will be paying attention.

A good place to start is to lead a more experienced horse along with the foal; lead them simultaneously with you in the middle. The safest place for you to stand is to the left of your student’s shoulder, with the older horse to your left. A young horse could suddenly decide to bolt or to kick his heels, so make sure that you don’t wrap the lead rope around your hand or anywhere else that makes you vunerable. The last thing you need at this stage is complicating the process with an injury for which you may need to claim on your horse insurance.

Another method you could use, if you have a calm horse that you are comfortable riding and that the foal will follow, is the pony method. Using a longer lead rope and simply tow the young trainee behind the more experienced horse. This is actually a logical method for teaching the lead, as it’s natural for the young to follow the elders behaviour.

With no other horses nearby, you will need to rely solely on your patience, persistence, and positive reinforcement skills. Use these three Ps of horse training when trying to get the horse to understand what it is you would like him to do.

After satisfactory progress, it’s time to try it alone. Again, standing to the left of your young horse’s shoulder and with both of you looking straight ahead, gently walk forward and as you step out, tug very gently forward, then release any pressure on the rope as soon as the horse makes any motion to go forward. Understanding that release is a reward to your horse is a valuable tip used by professional trainers. It tells your horse he’s doing something right.

When he can successfully walk with you in straight lines, try a slight left turn whist maintaining the space bubble. If he crowds you, use your right hand to push him out away from you and hold your arm out to the appropriate distance. Then try turning to the right with the same safety distance between the two of you, still using your right hand to guide him into the correct zone. You will need to reward him by releasing the pressure on the lead rope each time he steps in the right direction.

Lead training requires large reserves of patience. Big improvements will soon be made if you can just stick with it. Work every day if possible for short periods and you’ll be pleased with the results; then you will be moving closer to the time when you can saddle up and begin riding.

A horse with colic is a situation that worrries any horse lover. So what exactly is colic? What symptoms should you look for?

Equine colic refers to pain originating in the abdomen. Normally horses will not tolerate abdominal pain very well. So if there is any disturbance of gut functioning they tend to show signs of discomfort.

Signs of irritation could be stretching, standing as if to urinate, and pawing the ground. If in more pain the horse will stand up and lie down, and try rolling to get more comfortable.

It will start sweating. In more severe cases it will stand up and down and continuously roll.

What Should You Do?
If you believe your horse has colic, you should call an experienced equine vet straight away. The vet will be able to provide rapid pain relief and decide whether further action is necessary.

What should you do while waiting for the vet to arrive? Leading your horse for a walk often helps. It may encourage his guts to start working normally and surpress any pain. It could also prevent him lying down and rolling. However if he is lying down peacefully then you should let him stay there.

It was previously thought that a horse could twist its gut by rolling. That has been proven to be probably incorrect. But it is best to stop him rolling around if you can. This way you will stop your horse causing injury himself by striking itself on the stable walls. But be careful that you don’t cause injury to yourself. Horses often forget all their normal manners when they are in pain.

There are several differing reasons as to why horses get colic. Frequently the signs look similar regardless of the cause.

What will the vet do to look into the problem? He or she will have a listen to the abdomen with a stethoscope which will tell whether there is more or less activity in the gut than normal.

Examining the heart rate gives a good idea of the severity of the discomfort and the seriousness of the colic. Normally a horse with a normal heart beat does not have a sever problem. However fast heart rates are not such a good sign.

A very useful part of the examination will be the rectal examination. By physically feeling the intestines, your vet could be able to find the root of the problem. Without doubt this is a very skilled procedure, that is potentially dangerous for both parties. But for an experienced vet the feedback it gives is incredibly useful in deciding the cause of the problem. It may reveal a blockage, or a swollen loop of intestines as a result of a loop or another intestinal issue.

In all but the simple scenarios the vet may inset a tube through the nose into the stomach. Though it sounds unpleasant but helps make the horse comfortable by releasing any pressure in the stomach. This process can also give the vet detailed information about whether the stomach is functioning properly.

Sometimes a horse is in so much pain that it isn’t possible for the vet to diagnose fully without first applying a dose of sedative.

Only by collecting all of the signs provided by a careful examination is the vet able to make an initial diagnosis. Even then it may not be possible to tell exactly what the problem is.

It might be the case that, after the first inspection, your horse requires emergency surgery. Though more usually the vet will decide to treat the horse with a fast-acting painkiller and review his condition after a few hours. The majority of examples display a quick improvement. However some will either not respond to the treatment, or they will improve at first, then start showing signs of pain again later on.

In preference to having to bring the vet out several times, it is normally preferred to move these cases to a specialist practice where they can be monitored closely and operations can be performed if appropriate.

In Conclusion
Fortunately the majority of cases respond well to medical intervention. However if surgery is needed – it is important to operate early. The likelyhood of a successful outcome is much better if the surgery is carried out before too much damage has taken place.

For more information, horses for sale and more, please visit the Horse and Pony Directory.

Almost all horse injuries and illnesses (excluding sports injuries and mistreatment) are due to a small number of mistakes in the way horses are kept and treated. Here are the top 10 tips to avoiding these errors and protecting your horse’s health (in rough order of importance, beginning with the most important).

1. Start with a healthy horse

Our number one tip is to make sure when getting a new horse that it is healthy to begin with. There are a lot of horses which are cheap, or even free, because they have health issues;  avoid them as you are likely to spend more in veterinary costs and tears than you will save on the purchase price. Also, when looking at horses for sale, beware of sellers passing off a sick horse as a healthy one. Before buying a horse, put it through a horse health checklist. 

2. Food (type and quality)

Give your horse as natural a diet as possible. Feed grass when possible, with hay the next best alternative. Although old, weak or ill horses may need grain for some extra energy, for young and healthy horses the best choice is grass.

As well as feeding the correct type of food, ensure that it is of good quality. Never feed hay or other food which is moldy or has fungus. If feed gets wet, use it immediately (within a day) or throw it away. Bad feed can be a cause of serious illnesses such as colic or laminitis.

A mineral stone and salt lick should also be provided, to compensate for any deficiencies in the horse’s food.

3. Natural environment (pasture & herd)

Just as a horse should have natural food, it should spend as much time as possible in a natural environment. The two most important parts of this is that it should be on pasture as much as possible and that it should be part of a herd (i.e. with other horses or horse equivalents). Time on pasture gives the horse a natural diet (grass), a natural feeding regime (many small feeds throughout the day rather than a couple large and short feeds), exercise and mental stimulation. Being with other horses gives a sense of safety (horses have a very strong herd instinct) and the social interactions gives it mental stimulation.  

Horses which spend most of their time in this natural environment will be happier and more relaxed, with a corresponding decrease in the development of bad habits (such as head weaving or cribbing), which are generally associated with stress and boredom

4. Healthy stall

Especially if a horse spends a lot of time in its stall, the stall environment should be healthy.

• It should have enough ventilation that there is not a build up of ammonia (the harsh burning smell which is produced when bacteria break down horse urine on the stall floor).
• It should be big enough that the horse has a bit of room to move, say 4 yards by 4.
• It should have clean and suitable bedding. In particular, bedding which has gone off (mold or fungus) should never be used.

5. Safe pasture

The pasture should be free of any items which could injure the horse.

The most common cause of serious injuries to horses while on pasture is inappropriate fencing wire. Barbed wire should never be used and it can puncture the horse, causing not only injuries (which can be fatal if a main artery is hit) but also abscesses and other serious infections. High-tension wire should not be used either, since it can cut through flesh and tendons, especially if it breaks and becomes entangled around a leg. If fencing wire is used, it should be a wire which will break before causing serious injury and it should be under current to discourage horses from pushing against it.

If one is using a field which has not been previously cleaned, every bit of it should be closely examined for items which could injure a horse and such items removed. I’ve seen enough horses seriously injured from being put on an old farming field which had bits of fencing wire or pieces of machinery lying about. Likewise, holes (e.g. from burrowing animals) can result in a broken leg so should be filled in promptly. Similarly, broken branches or other objects lying around can result in injuries (especially if the horses are spooked at night, when they may not see the objects and consequently run into them).

There are a number of poisonous plants, which can make a horse ill or even kill it. Learn what types of plants are on your horse’s pasture and check if any of them are poisonous to horses. Most horses will avoid the majority of poisonous plants (unless there is nothing else to eat) so if you see a type of plant which the horses are not eating, one should in particular check that it is safe.

6. Preventative medicine

An ounce of prevention is better than a pound of cure. One should worm a horse regularly, give it the required inoculations, and have a regular (e.g. once a year) dental check. Worming requirements depend partly on where you live (parasite types and severity vary by region). Likewise the inoculations which should be given depend not only on the local areas (what diseases are present) but also on how you use the horse (e.g. if it is transported off your property and comes into contact with strange horses). Consequently, one should discuss requirements with a local veterinarian.

7. Watch and regularly inspect the horse

Horses, like people, will naturally become ill occasionally and may suffer accidents from time to time. In most cases, one starts with a minor problem which is easily (and inexpensively) treated if spotted early, but may become a major issue if left untreated.

One should watch a horse each day, and preferably twice a day, even if it is just for a few minutes. Learn what is normal behavior for that particular horse (e.g. running about or quietly grazing) and if there is a change to its normal behavior one needs to inspect the horse more closely. In particular, any signs of the horse appearing unwell (e.g. head hanging, inactive, stopped eating) or unhappy should be checked and monitored until the cause is found and corrected, with veterinary assistance if the situation becomes worse or is already serious.

Certain illness (e.g. impaction colic, laminitis) can often be treated successfully if done so promptly, whereas waiting less than a day after the first visible symptoms can result in a maimed or dead horse. Regular observation and prompt treatment are the key to so many illnesses.

One should clean and examine the sole of the hooves each day. In part this is to remove stones, ice chunks or other items which can damage a hoof. However, an equally important part of this daily routine is that it enables one to spot hoof issues early. Likewise, regular grooming is important not only because a clean horse looks better but also because it provides an opportunity to closely examine all parts of the horse for injuries or other abnormalities.

8. Shelter

Horses should have shelter from excessive cold, rain or wind. A simple shelter, open on one side facing away from the prevailing wind, can greatly increases the horse’s comfort. Alternatively, when the weather is very bad, it may be necessary to remove the horses from pasture and paddock and put them into their stalls.

The amount of shelter a horse requires depends on the local environment (how extreme the temperature gets locally) but also on the horse. A strong and healthy horse, which is neither very old or very young, will be much more resistant to weather extremes. Likewise, certain breeds (especially if they have a long coat, which has not been trimmed or had the coat oils removed by frequent washing) are more resistant than others. One needs to provide a level of shelter which is appropriate to the individual horse and the current weather. One should also consider a horse rug for horses which are very old, very young, sick, weak or prone to illness. One may also consider a fly sheet, which not only increases the horses comfort but also reduces the risk of sweet itch, eye infections (if a fly mask is used) and other illnesses which can be transmitted by biting or blood sucking insects.

9. Breed and individual requirements

Each breed has its own special requirements. For examples, many breeds are prone to laminitis and consequently should have only limited access to spring grass. Other breeds may have specific issues and require special treatment (e.g. many Appaloosa are night blind and consequently are more likely to run into fencing if left out at night). Learning about your breed’s strengths and weaknesses from a medical perspective will allow you to respond accordingly.

Likewise, each horse is an individual. Some are more weather resistant than others. Some are more prone to colic or other illnesses. As you watch and live with your horse, learn about its special needs and treat it accordingly. For example, if it is allergic to dust, one may need to soak its hay in water or buy low-dust feed. If it looks unhappy and uncomfortable in cold weather, one should consider taking it under shelter or providing it with a rug, as you may be looking at an early warning for a potential illness (e.g. cold-induced colic or a cold-induced lung infection). Taking account of your horse’s medical history and behavior as part of your horse management program will help keep it healthy and happy.

10. Continue to learn

Nobody knows everything about horses and everyone started out knowing nothing. However, if you educate yourself and continue to learn, you will be able to take better care of your horse, avoiding problems when possible and otherwise treating them promptly and correctly.

Bonding with your horse will allow you to learn and respond to his feelings and reactions in different situations. In time you will learn your horse’s body language. A horse that is calm and responsive is generally happy. He will keep a low head, relaxed jaw and have soft eyes. A horse when happy will not invade your personal space – this is a sign of respect in seeking affection from you. Surprisingly, yawning is a sign not of boredom but of relaxation and calm. Be aware that if your horse holds his head high with a tense jaw and darting eyes whilst showing a reluctance to stand still, then this is a sign that he is not comfortable and something is troubling him. You must let the horse settle down in his own time, otherwise he may feel trapped and possibly go into “flight” mode, making him even more stressed.

When grooming your horse you also get the opportunity to check him over for minor ailments or other problems. You should inspect your horse’s teeth, hooves, shoes, eyes and droppings regularly. Any change in the normal should be reported to your vet at the earliest opportunity – any delay could cause you extra worry, expense and a potential claim on your horse insurance. Regular appointments for worming and routine vaccinations are essential. There are many different types of worms and parasites and you should rotate medications to get the best benefits and to stop them building up immunity. It’s important for the prevention of colic, heart and immune system problems to give correct equine medication. Horses should always be vaccinated for encephalitis, influenza and rhinoneumonitis. A good idea would be to have tetanus and rabies vaccinations too. A negative Coggins test for equine infectious anaemia (EIA) may need to be shown if you regularly use hired trailers for horse events – this is a serious incurable equine virus.

Regular visits from the farrier is an important part of keeping a horse happy and comfortable. A horse’s mood and performance will be adversely affected if his hooves are allowed to get too long as this will cause discomfort and imbalance. The farrier should trim hooves every six to eight weeks or more often if needed.

Your horse will need a blanket or coat during the wet and cold winter months and during the summer, a fly protective horse sheet or mask is advisable. If your horse lathers up during or after exercising, it’s best to use a horse cooler until they have calmed and cooled down. While it may seem logical to give your horse a drink after exercise, this could in fact put his body into shock. Do not feed your horse straight after exercising – you need to let him cool down first. Leave it for an hour after meals before exercising your horse.

Horses need to have a purpose, whether it is riding, showing, therapy, carriages or dray. Horses love to be needed. It is important for a horse’s sense of purpose and focus that he receives regular praise – especially when young – for performing simple tasks such as simply standing still or in the right place. As horses are naturally inquisitive animals, they will become more brave, positive and confident the more new experiences you introduce to them.

A horse will be at its happiest when given the very best in love and care that it is possible to give. As a horse owner you have a responsibility to provide the best healthcare possible for your equine companion. Keeping a horse can be a very expensive business, and without good horse insurance provided by a specialist equine insurer, it is possible to quickly run into financial problems if your horse should become sick or sustain an injury. By looking out for your horse’s health and happiness you will be rewarded with love a hundred times over from your equine friend.

Colic is the single most important horse disease. It causes more horse fatalities than any other illness and even when horses fully recover it is the single biggest cause of major veterinary expenses. It can also cause other illnesses such as lminitis or founder.

There are many different types of colic and many different causes. Fortunately, the main causes have been identified by research, including studies which have covered thousands of colic cases. Following is a list of actions to avoid the main causes of colic and thereby greatly reduce the risk of colic and protect your horse’s health.

1) Feeding Frequency. Horses naturally eat small amounts throughout the day. A small number of feedings (e.g. 1 or 2 times per day) is inadequate for digestive system health. Provide lots of pasture time or feed frequently.

2) High-Volume Foods. Horses have evolved on high-volume and high-fiber foods such as grass. Although one can feed energy-dense foods such as grain or musli, they should not be the main component of the horse’s diet. When feeding both hay and grain, the hay should be first and then the grain, as this results in better digestion and reduced bolting of food.

3) Soak Pelleted Food. Unsoaked pellets (e.g. hay pellets) are more likely to be bolted and more likely to cause choke than soaked pellets. More relevantly, unsoaked pellets expand when they come into contact with stomach liquids and can thereby result in bloat and subsequently colic.

4) Protect Feed. Horses sometimes get into a feedroom and eat excessive quantities of food. Especially in the case of grain and related feeds, this can result in colic. It can also result in laminitis. Keeping the feedroom locked or using a horse-proof latch is wise.

5) Prevent Bolting. A horse may bolt (swallow without chewing) its food, potentially resulting in colic. This may be simply greed or a bad habit, but can also be due to medical issues such as dental problems. If your horse bolts, discuss with your vet how to correct this problem.

6) Sand and Dirt. Make sure that your horse does not ingest sand or dirt, as this can result in impaction colic. Do not feed them on top of sandy or dirt surfaces. Avoid over-grazed pastures.

7) Water. A horse which does not drink enough is prone to colic. Likewise, a horse that has not had access to water and then suddenly drinks a very large quantity. Ensure that your horse has access to water throughout the day. During winter, water should be warmed, as most horses will greatly reduce their water intake if it is too cold. After exercising a horse, allow it to drink but limit the quantity until it has cooled down.

De-worming. Horses should be de-wormed regularly (every 3-4 months). All the horses which share a pasture should be de-wormed at the same time to prevent cross-infection. If a horse has not been de-wormed for a long time, use a laxative a few days before to clear out the worst of the worm population before administrating a de-wormer medication.

9) Regular Exercise. Horses with insufficient exercise are more prone to colic. When starting an exercise regime, start gradually as rapid changes in the amount of exercise can result in colic.

10) Eating Bedding. Many horses eat bedding, particularly straw bedding. If your horse ingests a large amount of bedding, especially inedible beddings (such as wood shavings), change to a bedding type which they don’t eat.

11) Cold. Most horses can tolerate cold well, especially if they are young and healthy. However, if a horse becomes chilled (drop in body temperature) there is a good chance they will have colic. This is most likely when a period of mild weather is followed by sudden cold weather. It is also likely to occur when cold weather is combined with wet and windy weather. Allowing your horse to grow a long winter coat and protecting it with a rug during the coldest weather is adviseable. Special care needs to be taken with old, sick or weak horses which are less able to maintain body temperature.

If you are looking for a free (or very inexpensive) horse, one of the best places to look is rescue associations, or animal rescue groups which also deal with horses. These associations take on horses but have limited resources to take care of them in terms of space (stalls, pasture), money (food, bedding, etc.) and staff time (mucking out, general care). Consequently, they are normally looking for good homes to pass the horses onto, so that they can free up their scare resources to care for others. Therefore, they will usually pass the horses on for free, or for a nominal amount (to recover some of their direct costs).

In addition to getting a horse very cheaply, you are also doing a good deed by adopting the horse. In so doing, you free up the rescue association’s resources, allowing them to take on other animals. Another advantage is that rescue organisations are non-profit and consequently looking at what is best for the horse and new owner, so are more likely to be honest about potential issues and the suitability of the horse to your requirements than businesses offering horses for sale.

Of course, any rescue organization will want to be sure that the horse is going to a good home, before they consider giving it away. Expect to be interviewed to determine your fitness to take on a horse. Typical questions are whether you have the commitment, time, money and facilities (e.g. box and pasture) to take on a horse long-term. They will also want to know if you have the knowledge and experience to take care of a horse, or as a minimum that someone will work with you to teach you the required basics.

Before taking a horse from a rescue organization, you should learn as much about the horse and its history as you can. This will help you understand its capabilities (e.g. how much training it has), physical health, any behavioral issues, and any health concerns. In this regard, one should ask about the results of any veterinary examinations and the experiences of the staff when dealing with the horse while it was in their care.

It is also useful to know why the horse was rescued and what condition it was in when rescued. If the reason was economic (e.g. owner in financial difficulty) or practical (owner moving house and will no longer have facilities) then there are no implications. However, in the case of horses which were neglected or abused, there may be long term health or behavioral issues. Knowing the horses background can identify potential issues which may otherwise not be apparent.

Once you have a good understand of the horse’s condition and any possible associated issues, you can decide if the horse meets your requirements. For example, if you want the horse just as a companion, it does not matter if it is old or can no longer be ridden. However, if you want it as a riding horse, you will want one which is physically sound and well trained. It may well be that the association does not have a horse at the moment which meets your needs. In this case, the best course is to assure them that you will provide a good home to the right horse and provide the association with a written description of your requirements and your contact details. Unless your needs are very unusual, it is quite possible that in a few weeks or months the horse you are looking for will show up.

Although it does depend on individual circumstances (e.g. whether you are an experienced trainer or not), most people buying a horse are better off getting a fully trained horse. If you are intending to use a horse just for basic riding, it is advisable to buy one already trained in the basics; if you are using a horse for advanced riding consider getting one already trained to the advanced level. Likewise, if you are using it for show jumping, get one which is already trained in show jumping.

It is of course possible to buy an untrained or partly trained horse. The obvious advantage of an untrained horse for sale is that it will be less expensive than a trained horse. Also, you can have the horse trained exactly the way you want by your choice of instructor, and have the pleasure of being part of this. However, there are a number of substantial disadvantages, such as:

• Training Expenses. With an untrained horse, training is an additional cost which one has to factor in. Aside from the direct costs of the trainer, unless the trainer comes to you there is the additional cost of transporting the horse to the trainer for each lesson, or stabling the horse with the trainer. The exact costs of training depend on individual circumstances, but they are under-estimated far more often than over-estimated. Frequently, once one factors in the final total training costs, it would have been cheaper to have purchased a horse that was already trained.
• Accidents. Occasionally there are accidents during training, even with good trainers, especially during early training when the horse is less predictable. Even in the case of minor accidents, there may be vet costs.
• Incorrect Training. Some trainers are not as good as others. In addition, many trainers will rush training or under-estimate the amount required, to get the contract at an acceptable price. This may result in an incompletely or incorrectly trained horse.
• Feel. Two horses, trained in exactly the same way, will provide a different riding experience due to individual differences. Horses differ due to breed, build, training and individual genetics. Consequently, how comfortable you will be riding a horse is more predictable with an already trained horse than with an untrained one.
• Health Check. It is easier to evaluate the health of a trained horse than an untrained one, as one can ride it and also watch it while being ridden in each gait. With an untrained horse, health checks are not quite as complete.

Because of these factors, buying an already trained horse is often less expensive, less risky and less stressful than buying an untrained or partly trained horse and then having it trained up.

Although some people purchase a horse with the idea of training it themselves, this is inadvisable unless one is an experienced trainer (or working closely with one). Novice trainers can easily give the horse bad behaviors or habits, which are expensive and difficult to correct.

You should also be wary of buying a partly trained horse based on the seller’s commitment to fully train it. Having made the sale, many sellers will rush the training and cut corners, in order to minimize their costs and receive payment as soon as possible. One should only make a purchase commitment when the horse is fully trained and you have ridden it to ensure that you are completely satisfied with the result.

Horses are incredibly sensitive and it is important that they get the care and attention they deserve. It’s not enough to only provide the bare necessities like food, shelter and whatever healthcare your horse insurance policy will cover. Like humans, it is those little extras that they need to be truly at peace with their place in the world.

It’s best to keep your horse among other ponies or horses, as they are herd animals in nature and will need to have company. Your horse should see you, as his owner, as part of the herd, and preferably as herd leader. Your horse may give you signs – such as chewing or licking – that he sumbits to your leadership. The development of trust and a lasting emotional bond with your horse relies on you spending quality time with your horse. When this is achieved, it will have a positive effect on all areas in the horse’s handling and riding.

Horses are clean animals, so ensure that their stable/stalls are clean and warm, with deep bedding. A deep bed will ease the strain on their legs and joints, and of course, if they wish to lie down, they can in comfort, ensuring that they feel safe and secure.

It’s important to get the feeding right with horses. As they will be grazing outside during the day, horses should be fed little and often. Incorporate a variety of appropriate foods into your horse’s diet in order to provide a balance. Your horse needs lots of fibre for his digestive system, so lots of fresh grass or hay is essential. Grain is excellent too, but be careful of overfeeding this as it can cause an upset stomach. Water should be freely available to your horse. Water allows the food to ferment so it doesn’t become solid and hard in the horse’s rear gut. Regularity of feeding times is important for horses, as they do best when in a routine. They need to be fed at the same time every day.

Grooming your horse daily will show the horse that they are loved – they will enjoy extra attention from you which grooming brings. Make sure you do lots of rubbing, scratching and brushing. This is such an enjoyable part of the day for both of you. Grooming will also help to keep their coat in good condition and free from pests. Also on a daily basis you need to pick your horse’s hooves. They must feel comfortable on their hooves or they will become grumpy, not to mention that failing to take care of your horse’s feet will put him at risk of injury or infection which could cost you a claim on your equine insurance.

The happiness of any equine relies largely on exercise. Horses need plenty of daily exercise. Varied exercise will stop your horse becoming bored; you could include jumping and cross-country elements, for instance. On the other hand, also let your horse have play time. Turn your horse out so he can run free for a while in the paddock. They can then mix with other horses, play, and also have some quiet time to themselves. It is essential that horses are allowed to relax as well as perform training tasks, otherwise their behaviour can become erratic.

The above tips are just a few pieces of advice which can help you look after the physical and pscychological needs of your horse. For more information and to become part of a horse-lovers’ community on the world-wide web, please visit AFI Horse Insurance where you can read and contribute to our brand-new equine blog.

When considering a new horse, one should check its health before making any commitment. A veterinary’s advice (preferably one specializing in horses) is useful in this regard. There are also a number of checks which you can do in order to identify most of the potential issues.

One begins with the general external appearance. The coat should be even, shinny and lie flat. The body should be well filled out, with well toned muscle. It should not be overweight or underweight. It should stand evenly on all four legs, with all four hooves pointing straight ahead. It is normal to rest a hind leg (but not a front leg), provided that it is not always the same leg which is rested.

Run your hands slowly down each leg, feeling for any swellings, bumps or hot spots. Give special attention to joints and the bottom of the leg. Check that each hoof is smooth, even and crack free.

Lift a hoof and check the sole for correct shape and any indications of previous injury; then repeat with the other three hooves. The angle and tilt of all four hooves should be correct and identical. If the horse is reluctant to lift a foot, it could just be lack of training, but may well be that it does not want to put more weight on another hoof, which would indicate an injury (to hoof, leg or spine). If you are unsure on any of these points, ask a professional farrier or blacksmith to perform the examination. In terms of horse health, remember the old saying about the importance of hooves ‘No hooves, no horse”..

Check that the gums are shinny, moist and pink. If you press gently on the gums they will turn white, but should return to the normal pink color within two seconds of you removing your finger.

Check the teeth (you may want the advice of a horse dentist for this area) for wear, unevenness or spurs. If all looks fine, give the horse about 5kg (10lb) of hay (hay is a good test as it requires a lot of chewing) and watch how the horse eats. It should eat steadily, using both sides of its jaw equally, without dropping any food or leaving any hay incompletely chewed. Although this is not a conclusive test of dental health, it can identify some potential issues.

Examine the horse’s droppings. They should consist of firm balls, with a mild and inoffensive odor.

The horse should appear alert, interested in things around it, and happy. It should move its ears in response to noises and hold them in an upright position.

Have the horse taken to an exercise ring and exercised at all gaits (e.g. walk, trot, and gallop). It should take easy, smooth strides of equal length and with the weight evenly spread on all four legs. It should not favor any leg. Circle the horse in both directions (left inside and right inside) to make sure that it performs equally well in both directions.

The horse should not sweat (except during hot weather) or breathe hard until it has been worked at a fast gait. As it speeds up, there should be a gradual but moderate increase in respiration. As it slows down, the respiration should quickly follow. Once its stops, it should quickly return to its resting heart and respiration rate. It should not show any sign of discomfort or limping either before or after vigorous exercise.

One should also ask the current owner about the medical history and ask permission to discuss the horse with its regular vet. Ask to see the inoculation and medical records for the horse. Ask if it has every had any illness, in particular colic or laminitis. Be concerned about any incomplete or evasive answers.