Saucy Pet

Posts Tagged ‘horse’

Groundwork exercises are important but mostly straightforward and can be used when training either your own horse or a horse you are training. It is important to get these exercises right first, as this is how you and the horse will become familiar with each other and build a trusting relationship. All future training depends on first performing good groundwork exercises. It is important for your safety that your new ton-sized friend is taught to respect your personal space bubble.

The key to success in horse training is to be patient, persistent and to employ positive reinforcement techniques in every exercise you perform together. These are the 3 P’s of basic horse training that will serve you well no matter what level you are training or what you might be training for in the future.

1. Groom your horse. When grooming your horse you are actually performing an important exercise in groundwork training. You’ll get to know each other. Standing beside your horse, brush his back and neck. At this time it is common for horses to come around with their teeth and give you a little love bite. While horses do this to each other all the time, naturally they cannot do it to humans. Just wave your hand or push the head back to straight ahead position to discourage this. Horses have enormous teeth so it is important for your safety that you let him know that this is unacceptable. It’s important to stay calm and be patient. It will not take long for him to cooperate once he gets the idea. It will do you no good to panic, stress, smack your horse or get otherwise agitated. This will only set you back with your trust levels.

2. Lead your horse. With the lead rope in your right hand, walk beside your horse on his left side while holding the rope just below his chin. Step forward and walk slowly. He should not try to go ahead of you but should remain at your right side. If he tries to go ahead just walk around him to your left in a circle. Do this as many times as necessary. Be persistent. Use the circular movement to stay just ahead of him, where you should be. If, on the other hand, your horse doesn’t want to walk with you, stand slightly behind at his shoulder facing the same direction. Hold the rope close to his chin and push forward. Once he takes a step, praise him and use your positive reinforcement skills. When he starts to walk willingly, take your place slightly ahead of him and walk on. Never wrap the lead rope around any part of yourself – this is for your own safety. If the horse decides to bolt you’ll be going along and it will not be pretty.

3. Lunge your horse.This is a fantastic exercise which the vast majority of horse owners and certainly all horse trainers will use to teach their horse about what is expected. Lunging will teach many of the skills and commands, or cues, your horse will need to know when you’re ready to work him under saddle.

In a large open area (an arena works, too, if you don’t have a round enclosure) clip your horse to a lunge lead specifically for lunging. This will be 30 ft long (approximately 10m), much longer than the short lead rope you use for the lead exercise. Clip the lead to the horse’s left halter side and hold the lead in your left hand. Face your horse’s left side to begin, whilst holding the lunge rope. In your right hand hold a lunge whip; this is to guide him along. Now step to your right sideways toward the rear of the horse while holding the whip out behind him. The natural reaction will be for the horse to step forward. Make a kissing sound as you let out the lunge lead and follow him just behind and to the left. He’ll begin to associate that sound with “move forward”. As you’re turning and the horse moves in a circle around you, hold the whip slightly behind his hindquarters. You do not use the whip for hitting. You only need to wave it just a little to get his attention.

Move yourself slowly backwards to the centre as the horse is moving forwards. As the horse walks around you in a circle, stand in the middle with the lunge rope fully extended. Watch your horse’s hip area as he’s going round.

This is the perfect time to teach your horse to understand “whoa”. In a low, calm voice, say the word “whoooaa”. At the same time, step toward your horse’s head and repeat the word. Be sure to give him a neck rub with lots of praise when he stops. You will help him remember what to do through this positive reinforcement.

You can now change position so that you are lunging your horse anti-clockwise. It’s done in the same way, but with the lead clipped to the right side of the halter and the lunge whip in the left hand.

These exercises are simple ways to get you started when traiing your horse. Remember always how big and powerful a horse actually is. This alone should be enough to remind you to have adequate horse insurance in place should either you or your equine be injured. Safety and trust is crucial to your success in training ventures and in all future activities. As well as a loyal friend, your horse is also an investment, so remember to protect that investment against theft, accident or misadventure by making sure you compare horse insurance policies to ensure you are getting the best level of cover for both of your needs.

The ultimate goal if you wish to ride is to achieve success in saddle training; however, it is necessary to do the groundwork first. Before riding, your horse will need to be led to where you will tack up. You can’t begin to teach point B if you’ve not first mastered how to get there from point A. The two of you can only act as a team if your horse cooperates with you. This cooperation begins with your ability to approach, catch, and halter him first. Then you’ll need to lead your horse about with a halter and a lead rope.

With the primary objective of safety in mind, your horse needs to learn what is acceptable behaviour. Although it is natural for him to pull against the lead rope, for example, he must be taught not to do so. A horse should never be allowed to invade the personal space of whoever is holding the lead rope. Accidents can easily occur if proper consideration to teaching basic safety manners to your horse is not given before moving on to more advanced training. Whilst a good equine insurance policy may cover you for accidents that happen in training, it’s obviously far more preferable not to have to find this out!

Lead training requires the use of patience, persistence and positive reinforcement – the essential three Ps of horse training. Having already accomplished haltering, it is likely that you have already discovered the effectiveness of the three Ps.

It is a good idea to begin lead training when the horse is still a foal. You don’t need to teach a very young horse about saddles and riding, of course, but don’t leave the basic ground manners until he is older. The young horse will need to cooperate for farrier and vet visits, as well as for the various people moving about the yard, stables or paddock.

If you happen to have the dam – the foal’s mother – present, lead training will be easier as he will naturally copy her behaviours. Don’t worry if the dam is not present, as it works as well with any horse which the foal spends time with. A young horse will naturally learn from his elders. For example, you don’t need to teach a horse in the pasture how to graze or go to the water and drink. They learn to do this by watching the other horses in the herd. If your student is older, you can still use another horse’s example by haltering and leading the other horse first. Horses notice everything that goes on around them – particularly if it involves other horses within the herd – so you can be sure that your student will be paying attention.

A good place to start is to lead a more experienced horse along with the foal; lead them simultaneously with you in the middle. The safest place for you to stand is to the left of your student’s shoulder, with the older horse to your left. A young horse could suddenly decide to bolt or to kick his heels, so make sure that you don’t wrap the lead rope around your hand or anywhere else that makes you vunerable. The last thing you need at this stage is complicating the process with an injury for which you may need to claim on your horse insurance.

Another method you could use, if you have a calm horse that you are comfortable riding and that the foal will follow, is the pony method. Using a longer lead rope and simply tow the young trainee behind the more experienced horse. This is actually a logical method for teaching the lead, as it’s natural for the young to follow the elders behaviour.

With no other horses nearby, you will need to rely solely on your patience, persistence, and positive reinforcement skills. Use these three Ps of horse training when trying to get the horse to understand what it is you would like him to do.

After satisfactory progress, it’s time to try it alone. Again, standing to the left of your young horse’s shoulder and with both of you looking straight ahead, gently walk forward and as you step out, tug very gently forward, then release any pressure on the rope as soon as the horse makes any motion to go forward. Understanding that release is a reward to your horse is a valuable tip used by professional trainers. It tells your horse he’s doing something right.

When he can successfully walk with you in straight lines, try a slight left turn whist maintaining the space bubble. If he crowds you, use your right hand to push him out away from you and hold your arm out to the appropriate distance. Then try turning to the right with the same safety distance between the two of you, still using your right hand to guide him into the correct zone. You will need to reward him by releasing the pressure on the lead rope each time he steps in the right direction.

Lead training requires large reserves of patience. Big improvements will soon be made if you can just stick with it. Work every day if possible for short periods and you’ll be pleased with the results; then you will be moving closer to the time when you can saddle up and begin riding.

Almost all horse injuries and illnesses (excluding sports injuries and mistreatment) are due to a small number of mistakes in the way horses are kept and treated. Here are the top 10 tips to avoiding these errors and protecting your horse’s health (in rough order of importance, beginning with the most important).

1. Start with a healthy horse

Our number one tip is to make sure when getting a new horse that it is healthy to begin with. There are a lot of horses which are cheap, or even free, because they have health issues;  avoid them as you are likely to spend more in veterinary costs and tears than you will save on the purchase price. Also, when looking at horses for sale, beware of sellers passing off a sick horse as a healthy one. Before buying a horse, put it through a horse health checklist. 

2. Food (type and quality)

Give your horse as natural a diet as possible. Feed grass when possible, with hay the next best alternative. Although old, weak or ill horses may need grain for some extra energy, for young and healthy horses the best choice is grass.

As well as feeding the correct type of food, ensure that it is of good quality. Never feed hay or other food which is moldy or has fungus. If feed gets wet, use it immediately (within a day) or throw it away. Bad feed can be a cause of serious illnesses such as colic or laminitis.

A mineral stone and salt lick should also be provided, to compensate for any deficiencies in the horse’s food.

3. Natural environment (pasture & herd)

Just as a horse should have natural food, it should spend as much time as possible in a natural environment. The two most important parts of this is that it should be on pasture as much as possible and that it should be part of a herd (i.e. with other horses or horse equivalents). Time on pasture gives the horse a natural diet (grass), a natural feeding regime (many small feeds throughout the day rather than a couple large and short feeds), exercise and mental stimulation. Being with other horses gives a sense of safety (horses have a very strong herd instinct) and the social interactions gives it mental stimulation.  

Horses which spend most of their time in this natural environment will be happier and more relaxed, with a corresponding decrease in the development of bad habits (such as head weaving or cribbing), which are generally associated with stress and boredom

4. Healthy stall

Especially if a horse spends a lot of time in its stall, the stall environment should be healthy.

• It should have enough ventilation that there is not a build up of ammonia (the harsh burning smell which is produced when bacteria break down horse urine on the stall floor).
• It should be big enough that the horse has a bit of room to move, say 4 yards by 4.
• It should have clean and suitable bedding. In particular, bedding which has gone off (mold or fungus) should never be used.

5. Safe pasture

The pasture should be free of any items which could injure the horse.

The most common cause of serious injuries to horses while on pasture is inappropriate fencing wire. Barbed wire should never be used and it can puncture the horse, causing not only injuries (which can be fatal if a main artery is hit) but also abscesses and other serious infections. High-tension wire should not be used either, since it can cut through flesh and tendons, especially if it breaks and becomes entangled around a leg. If fencing wire is used, it should be a wire which will break before causing serious injury and it should be under current to discourage horses from pushing against it.

If one is using a field which has not been previously cleaned, every bit of it should be closely examined for items which could injure a horse and such items removed. I’ve seen enough horses seriously injured from being put on an old farming field which had bits of fencing wire or pieces of machinery lying about. Likewise, holes (e.g. from burrowing animals) can result in a broken leg so should be filled in promptly. Similarly, broken branches or other objects lying around can result in injuries (especially if the horses are spooked at night, when they may not see the objects and consequently run into them).

There are a number of poisonous plants, which can make a horse ill or even kill it. Learn what types of plants are on your horse’s pasture and check if any of them are poisonous to horses. Most horses will avoid the majority of poisonous plants (unless there is nothing else to eat) so if you see a type of plant which the horses are not eating, one should in particular check that it is safe.

6. Preventative medicine

An ounce of prevention is better than a pound of cure. One should worm a horse regularly, give it the required inoculations, and have a regular (e.g. once a year) dental check. Worming requirements depend partly on where you live (parasite types and severity vary by region). Likewise the inoculations which should be given depend not only on the local areas (what diseases are present) but also on how you use the horse (e.g. if it is transported off your property and comes into contact with strange horses). Consequently, one should discuss requirements with a local veterinarian.

7. Watch and regularly inspect the horse

Horses, like people, will naturally become ill occasionally and may suffer accidents from time to time. In most cases, one starts with a minor problem which is easily (and inexpensively) treated if spotted early, but may become a major issue if left untreated.

One should watch a horse each day, and preferably twice a day, even if it is just for a few minutes. Learn what is normal behavior for that particular horse (e.g. running about or quietly grazing) and if there is a change to its normal behavior one needs to inspect the horse more closely. In particular, any signs of the horse appearing unwell (e.g. head hanging, inactive, stopped eating) or unhappy should be checked and monitored until the cause is found and corrected, with veterinary assistance if the situation becomes worse or is already serious.

Certain illness (e.g. impaction colic, laminitis) can often be treated successfully if done so promptly, whereas waiting less than a day after the first visible symptoms can result in a maimed or dead horse. Regular observation and prompt treatment are the key to so many illnesses.

One should clean and examine the sole of the hooves each day. In part this is to remove stones, ice chunks or other items which can damage a hoof. However, an equally important part of this daily routine is that it enables one to spot hoof issues early. Likewise, regular grooming is important not only because a clean horse looks better but also because it provides an opportunity to closely examine all parts of the horse for injuries or other abnormalities.

8. Shelter

Horses should have shelter from excessive cold, rain or wind. A simple shelter, open on one side facing away from the prevailing wind, can greatly increases the horse’s comfort. Alternatively, when the weather is very bad, it may be necessary to remove the horses from pasture and paddock and put them into their stalls.

The amount of shelter a horse requires depends on the local environment (how extreme the temperature gets locally) but also on the horse. A strong and healthy horse, which is neither very old or very young, will be much more resistant to weather extremes. Likewise, certain breeds (especially if they have a long coat, which has not been trimmed or had the coat oils removed by frequent washing) are more resistant than others. One needs to provide a level of shelter which is appropriate to the individual horse and the current weather. One should also consider a horse rug for horses which are very old, very young, sick, weak or prone to illness. One may also consider a fly sheet, which not only increases the horses comfort but also reduces the risk of sweet itch, eye infections (if a fly mask is used) and other illnesses which can be transmitted by biting or blood sucking insects.

9. Breed and individual requirements

Each breed has its own special requirements. For examples, many breeds are prone to laminitis and consequently should have only limited access to spring grass. Other breeds may have specific issues and require special treatment (e.g. many Appaloosa are night blind and consequently are more likely to run into fencing if left out at night). Learning about your breed’s strengths and weaknesses from a medical perspective will allow you to respond accordingly.

Likewise, each horse is an individual. Some are more weather resistant than others. Some are more prone to colic or other illnesses. As you watch and live with your horse, learn about its special needs and treat it accordingly. For example, if it is allergic to dust, one may need to soak its hay in water or buy low-dust feed. If it looks unhappy and uncomfortable in cold weather, one should consider taking it under shelter or providing it with a rug, as you may be looking at an early warning for a potential illness (e.g. cold-induced colic or a cold-induced lung infection). Taking account of your horse’s medical history and behavior as part of your horse management program will help keep it healthy and happy.

10. Continue to learn

Nobody knows everything about horses and everyone started out knowing nothing. However, if you educate yourself and continue to learn, you will be able to take better care of your horse, avoiding problems when possible and otherwise treating them promptly and correctly.

Bonding with your horse will allow you to learn and respond to his feelings and reactions in different situations. In time you will learn your horse’s body language. A horse that is calm and responsive is generally happy. He will keep a low head, relaxed jaw and have soft eyes. A horse when happy will not invade your personal space – this is a sign of respect in seeking affection from you. Surprisingly, yawning is a sign not of boredom but of relaxation and calm. Be aware that if your horse holds his head high with a tense jaw and darting eyes whilst showing a reluctance to stand still, then this is a sign that he is not comfortable and something is troubling him. You must let the horse settle down in his own time, otherwise he may feel trapped and possibly go into “flight” mode, making him even more stressed.

When grooming your horse you also get the opportunity to check him over for minor ailments or other problems. You should inspect your horse’s teeth, hooves, shoes, eyes and droppings regularly. Any change in the normal should be reported to your vet at the earliest opportunity – any delay could cause you extra worry, expense and a potential claim on your horse insurance. Regular appointments for worming and routine vaccinations are essential. There are many different types of worms and parasites and you should rotate medications to get the best benefits and to stop them building up immunity. It’s important for the prevention of colic, heart and immune system problems to give correct equine medication. Horses should always be vaccinated for encephalitis, influenza and rhinoneumonitis. A good idea would be to have tetanus and rabies vaccinations too. A negative Coggins test for equine infectious anaemia (EIA) may need to be shown if you regularly use hired trailers for horse events – this is a serious incurable equine virus.

Regular visits from the farrier is an important part of keeping a horse happy and comfortable. A horse’s mood and performance will be adversely affected if his hooves are allowed to get too long as this will cause discomfort and imbalance. The farrier should trim hooves every six to eight weeks or more often if needed.

Your horse will need a blanket or coat during the wet and cold winter months and during the summer, a fly protective horse sheet or mask is advisable. If your horse lathers up during or after exercising, it’s best to use a horse cooler until they have calmed and cooled down. While it may seem logical to give your horse a drink after exercise, this could in fact put his body into shock. Do not feed your horse straight after exercising – you need to let him cool down first. Leave it for an hour after meals before exercising your horse.

Horses need to have a purpose, whether it is riding, showing, therapy, carriages or dray. Horses love to be needed. It is important for a horse’s sense of purpose and focus that he receives regular praise – especially when young – for performing simple tasks such as simply standing still or in the right place. As horses are naturally inquisitive animals, they will become more brave, positive and confident the more new experiences you introduce to them.

A horse will be at its happiest when given the very best in love and care that it is possible to give. As a horse owner you have a responsibility to provide the best healthcare possible for your equine companion. Keeping a horse can be a very expensive business, and without good horse insurance provided by a specialist equine insurer, it is possible to quickly run into financial problems if your horse should become sick or sustain an injury. By looking out for your horse’s health and happiness you will be rewarded with love a hundred times over from your equine friend.

Curly horses have a certain gene which causes their hair to curl. In addition to curls in their coat, they may have curls in any or all other hair (such as the tail, mane, or even eyelashes). The growing popularity of this group of horses is due to:

1) Hypoallergenic. Curly horses appear to be unique in that people who suffer from horse allergies generally have a reduced reaction to curly horses or no reaction at all.

2) Appearance. The appearance of these horses, due to the curls or waves in their coat, is not only unusual but many people find it exceptionally attractive.

3) Feel. It is a special pleasure to groom and pet these horses, due to the soft and yielding feel of their coats.

4) Behavior. These horses are known for being unusually calm and sensible, characteristics apparently bred into their bloodlines.

The curly hair genes are found in all sizes of horses, from draft horses and standard horses, down to miniatures. They occur with all colors of horses and all builds.

There are many different types of curls, depending on the horse: fine pin curls up to large, heavy curls or simple waves. Some curlies are born with normal straight hair, in which case on only knows that they are curlies because their parents were and because they show other curly characteristics such as being hypoallergenic.

Consequently, there is tremendous variety in this group of horses. Curly breeders and associations are still working on defining the breed standard and implementing a breeding program based on this standard, in order that curly horses can be bred towards a standard type (one of the requirements for being recognized as an official breed). Therefore, if you thinking of buying a curly horse, the first thing to keep in mind is that there is no standard appearance for curly horses, so you need to look around to determine the type (size, color and amount of curl) which most appeals to you.

When choosing a curly, also keep in mind that the extent of the curl changes with age and also with season (it is most pronounced in winter). In summer, the hair is not only less curled, but is also shorter and thinner; in some cases the manes and tail hair are extremely short. If appearance is very important, before making your final decision you should see what the horse looks like (even if just from photos) in both winter and summer. You should also check the bloodline which the horse is from as an indication of how the coat will change as it ages (the nature of the changes vary from bloodline to bloodline).

If you are choosing a curly because these horses are hypoallergenic, be aware that the extent of this quality varies from horse to horse and that the benefit varies from person to person. Consequently, any combination of horse and person may exhibit no allergy, a reduced allergy, or the usual horse allergy. Therefore, one should test the person with the horse to determine the extent of the benefit. If one has extreme allergic reactions, take medical advice on how to do this test safely.

Other names for the curly horse include: North American Curly Horses, American Bashkir Curlies, and Bashkir Curlies. There are also a number of named bloodlines, each with their individual characteristics.

It is quite possible to buy a good horse for a low price at an auction, but there are often more problem horses than good horses so you need to be able to tell the difference. At most auctions, horses are sold ‘as-is’ and without guarantee, so if you find a problem afterwards you likely won’t be able to get your money back. Therefore, you need to do your homework in advance to pick out which ones meet your criteria, after eliminating the potential problems (e.g. injured, sick, bad habits, or behavioral issues).

If possible, get a catalogue of the horses on offer (so you can make notes) and arrive a few hours before the auction do that you have time to carefully look over the horses. A horse is a big investment, so it is worth investing time in making the right choice. Look at the horses as they are unloaded, eliminating any that appear overly difficult or that look unhealthy. As they are walked to the pens, they should walk easily and without any sign of lameness. If the horse appears frightened, scratch it off the list. On the other hand, if it looks apathetic and uninterested in its surroundings, it is likely sick or drugged, so remove it from the list as well. You are looking for a horse that is alert, perhaps a bit nervous (which is understandable in the strange surroundings) but well behaved.

Look at how the people unloaded the horses treat them. If they are the owners and are gentle with it, if is likely a well treated and well behaved horse, due to having received good horse care. However, if they are rough with the horse or hit it, then the horse may well have an abusive owner and resultant behavioral issues. Of course, one needs to know if the person handling the horse is the owner or not in order to decide how relevant this is.

Once the horses are unloaded, the next step is to go to where they are penned or stabled. Watch how the horses move and behave, eliminating any that have abnormal behavior. Look for any scars or blemishes, which can indicate previous injuries or mistreatment.

Through these various observations, you will normally have already eliminated most of the horses listed. With the remaining horses, try to find the owner so that you can ask about the horse. First ask the owner to tell you a bit about the horse. Once they have stopped talking, you can move to specific questions such as “What injuries and illnesses has the horse had?” and “What bad habits or problem behaviors does it have?”. Don’t forget to ask why the horse is being sold, particularly if the owner is full of nothing but praise for it.

At this stage, if you are still interested in a horse, ask the owner (or other responsible person) if you can examine it. If so, ask to have the horse removed from the pen to an area where you can check it over, since working in a pen full of strange horses is both distracting and potentially dangerous. Look the horse over closely. Carefully examine the feet (including the underside) and run your hands down the full length of the legs to feel for old injuries. Look at the teeth for excessive wear, loss or other issues. Put your thumb on one side of the spine and a finger on the other side and push firmly to see if the horse shows any discomfort or pain; starting at the shoulder repeat this for the entire length of the back. During your entire exercise the horse should appear alert but should not shown signs of aggression or fear.

If you find a problem during the examination, but not enough to eliminate the horse immediately, ask the owner to explain it. If you are not satisfied with the answer or don’t believe it, eliminate the horse. There will always be other horses and other auctions, so it is better to leave an auction without a horse than risk buying one which may have major issues. Once you have your final short list of horses, decide on a maximum price for each horse, as by the time bidding has started it is too late to think logically about this.

Before bidding on a horse, make sure that you have a place to keep the horse and to transport it there. If you haven’t made arrangements in advance, discuss with the auction staff if they know of a reputable person that can do this for you. At this point you should be prepared for the bidding. Good luck!

Colic is the single most important horse disease. It causes more horse fatalities than any other illness and even when horses fully recover it is the single biggest cause of major veterinary expenses. It can also cause other illnesses such as lminitis or founder.

There are many different types of colic and many different causes. Fortunately, the main causes have been identified by research, including studies which have covered thousands of colic cases. Following is a list of actions to avoid the main causes of colic and thereby greatly reduce the risk of colic and protect your horse’s health.

1) Feeding Frequency. Horses naturally eat small amounts throughout the day. A small number of feedings (e.g. 1 or 2 times per day) is inadequate for digestive system health. Provide lots of pasture time or feed frequently.

2) High-Volume Foods. Horses have evolved on high-volume and high-fiber foods such as grass. Although one can feed energy-dense foods such as grain or musli, they should not be the main component of the horse’s diet. When feeding both hay and grain, the hay should be first and then the grain, as this results in better digestion and reduced bolting of food.

3) Soak Pelleted Food. Unsoaked pellets (e.g. hay pellets) are more likely to be bolted and more likely to cause choke than soaked pellets. More relevantly, unsoaked pellets expand when they come into contact with stomach liquids and can thereby result in bloat and subsequently colic.

4) Protect Feed. Horses sometimes get into a feedroom and eat excessive quantities of food. Especially in the case of grain and related feeds, this can result in colic. It can also result in laminitis. Keeping the feedroom locked or using a horse-proof latch is wise.

5) Prevent Bolting. A horse may bolt (swallow without chewing) its food, potentially resulting in colic. This may be simply greed or a bad habit, but can also be due to medical issues such as dental problems. If your horse bolts, discuss with your vet how to correct this problem.

6) Sand and Dirt. Make sure that your horse does not ingest sand or dirt, as this can result in impaction colic. Do not feed them on top of sandy or dirt surfaces. Avoid over-grazed pastures.

7) Water. A horse which does not drink enough is prone to colic. Likewise, a horse that has not had access to water and then suddenly drinks a very large quantity. Ensure that your horse has access to water throughout the day. During winter, water should be warmed, as most horses will greatly reduce their water intake if it is too cold. After exercising a horse, allow it to drink but limit the quantity until it has cooled down.

De-worming. Horses should be de-wormed regularly (every 3-4 months). All the horses which share a pasture should be de-wormed at the same time to prevent cross-infection. If a horse has not been de-wormed for a long time, use a laxative a few days before to clear out the worst of the worm population before administrating a de-wormer medication.

9) Regular Exercise. Horses with insufficient exercise are more prone to colic. When starting an exercise regime, start gradually as rapid changes in the amount of exercise can result in colic.

10) Eating Bedding. Many horses eat bedding, particularly straw bedding. If your horse ingests a large amount of bedding, especially inedible beddings (such as wood shavings), change to a bedding type which they don’t eat.

11) Cold. Most horses can tolerate cold well, especially if they are young and healthy. However, if a horse becomes chilled (drop in body temperature) there is a good chance they will have colic. This is most likely when a period of mild weather is followed by sudden cold weather. It is also likely to occur when cold weather is combined with wet and windy weather. Allowing your horse to grow a long winter coat and protecting it with a rug during the coldest weather is adviseable. Special care needs to be taken with old, sick or weak horses which are less able to maintain body temperature.

Likewise various techniques for dog breeding and health treatments for dog breeds, same applies for horses… Have you heard about acupuncture for horses? Acupuncture is something that most of us our familiar with. However many people are perhaps unaware that acupuncture is also used on animals for example on different dog breeds (canine acupuncture). Equine acupuncture is a method where this particular treatment is used to cure horses.

There appears to be various versions about the roots of this unique method. Some claim that it was found in China while others believe that equine acupuncture was found in Tibet. Note that this treatment was one that came about 3000 – 4000 years before organized western medicine came into use.

Equine acupuncture gained global popularity during this time since the horse was a significant animal and was used for war and for transportation. However there are still those who look upon acupuncture in general through a critical eye considering it to be ineffective and somewhat primitive. This is indeed a misunderstanding. Good results gained through use of equine acupuncture on horses suffering from varying health problems and acupuncture being effective on people suffering from arthritis has lead to its widespread acceptance.

Some people might be surprised to know that equine acupuncture is extensively used in the case of performance horses and veterinary acupuncturists have accompanied several Olympic teams during games. In this case the motive is not just to treat any clinical conditions but also to ensure that the horse in question is in the best possible level physically before the games. The fact that it’s unnecessary to use drugs in equine acupuncture makes it all the more attractive since horses that are given drugs could be barred from competitions.

What most might people wonder is whether acupuncture in general is painful This is not so in most cases. At most people might feel ‘warm’ or numb. Even in the case of horses in equine acupuncture since the needles used are very thin, being only about 0.18 – 0.25 millimeters in width there is very little chance of it being painful.

Ensuring the capability of your veterinarian is important if you want to get equine acupuncture done on a horse that you own. Certification on this regard is issued by 2 bodies and you might be able to find online the veterinarian working closest to your house who is qualified at equine acupuncture.

Note that equine acupuncture is a treatment that is likely to be somewhat costly. The treatment is however both unique and effective though it may not be conventional.

If you are looking for a free (or very inexpensive) horse, one of the best places to look is rescue associations, or animal rescue groups which also deal with horses. These associations take on horses but have limited resources to take care of them in terms of space (stalls, pasture), money (food, bedding, etc.) and staff time (mucking out, general care). Consequently, they are normally looking for good homes to pass the horses onto, so that they can free up their scare resources to care for others. Therefore, they will usually pass the horses on for free, or for a nominal amount (to recover some of their direct costs).

In addition to getting a horse very cheaply, you are also doing a good deed by adopting the horse. In so doing, you free up the rescue association’s resources, allowing them to take on other animals. Another advantage is that rescue organisations are non-profit and consequently looking at what is best for the horse and new owner, so are more likely to be honest about potential issues and the suitability of the horse to your requirements than businesses offering horses for sale.

Of course, any rescue organization will want to be sure that the horse is going to a good home, before they consider giving it away. Expect to be interviewed to determine your fitness to take on a horse. Typical questions are whether you have the commitment, time, money and facilities (e.g. box and pasture) to take on a horse long-term. They will also want to know if you have the knowledge and experience to take care of a horse, or as a minimum that someone will work with you to teach you the required basics.

Before taking a horse from a rescue organization, you should learn as much about the horse and its history as you can. This will help you understand its capabilities (e.g. how much training it has), physical health, any behavioral issues, and any health concerns. In this regard, one should ask about the results of any veterinary examinations and the experiences of the staff when dealing with the horse while it was in their care.

It is also useful to know why the horse was rescued and what condition it was in when rescued. If the reason was economic (e.g. owner in financial difficulty) or practical (owner moving house and will no longer have facilities) then there are no implications. However, in the case of horses which were neglected or abused, there may be long term health or behavioral issues. Knowing the horses background can identify potential issues which may otherwise not be apparent.

Once you have a good understand of the horse’s condition and any possible associated issues, you can decide if the horse meets your requirements. For example, if you want the horse just as a companion, it does not matter if it is old or can no longer be ridden. However, if you want it as a riding horse, you will want one which is physically sound and well trained. It may well be that the association does not have a horse at the moment which meets your needs. In this case, the best course is to assure them that you will provide a good home to the right horse and provide the association with a written description of your requirements and your contact details. Unless your needs are very unusual, it is quite possible that in a few weeks or months the horse you are looking for will show up.

Cribbing is one of the various bad habits which horses can develop. It appears to develop as a result of boredom, in particular when a horse is confined to a stall for most of the day and has never been observed in horses which live in a natural environment (e.g. pasture based). With cribbing, the horse grabs an object (e.g. fence rail or feeding trough) with its front teeth, then arches its neck while pulling on the item, then sucks in air. Although the reason for this activity has not been proven, it is believed that the horse does it because it results in the release of brain chemicals (such as endorphins) which are pleasurable. The terms ‘crib biting’ and ‘wind sucking’ are also used.

Horse cribbing is sometimes confused with wood chewing but the two are different problems. A wood chewer simply nibbles on the wood, which is a habit that is easily treatable. A cribber pulls on wood (or other objects) while sucking air in order to release brain chemicals, which effectively makes it a drug addiction, and consequently much more difficult to cure.

The cribbing habit should be treated and cured promptly, partly to minimize the health effects, but also because the longer the habit continues the more difficult it is to correct. If not corrected, it will result in the teeth being worn down and damaged, resulting in dental issues. It also results in abnormal muscle growth in the neck, including thickening of the neck, a problem for show horses as well as any health problems. A number of illnesses, in particular colic, have been associated with cribbing since horses which crib are more likely to get colic. However, more recent research indicates that cribbing does not in fact cause colic; it is simply that horses that are confined for long periods to their boxes and have an unnatural diet are more likely to develop both colic and cribbing as a result.

As cribbing is mainly due to boredom, the primary treatment is to make the horse’s environment more interesting. Replacing stall time by as much pasture time as possible is generally very effective in reducing the amount of cribbing. Feeding it many small meals rather than one or two large meals per day, and feeding it chewy food such as pasture grass or hay instead of grain, are both very helpful. Any other activities which provide interest, such as exercise and grooming, also make a positive contribution.

Unfortunately, once the habit of cribbing has been established, removing the cause will only reduce the frequency but not completely remove the cause. One also needs to stop the behavior as well. This can be very difficult as the horse can crib not only on wood, but on any item which in can hold tightly with its teeth and pull on. There are a variety of techniques to address this but no one technique works with all horses, so you may need to try different techniques until you find one that works with your horse.

One common approach is a cribbing strap (also known as cribbing collar), which fits around the neck and holds a small metal plate to the underside of the neck, making cribbing uncomfortable. Alternatively, one can use a special muzzle which fits over the head, preventing the horse from reaching objects with its teeth but still allowing it to feed through the metal grill. Painting fence rails with a specialty paint which gives them a bad taste (use only the veterinary approved paints) will discourage cribbing on them, as will adding a fencing wire (with electrical current) to the top of rails. Some horse owners have also reported improvements with certain medications (e.g. anti-depressants for the horse). Finally, there is a surgical solution which involves cutting certain neck muscles and nerves to make cribbing physically impossible, although this should be seen as a final option.

One should do both activities, remove the cause of the behavior by providing more mental stimulation for the horse and also use one or more of the above techniques to discourage the behavior. Addressing the cause but not the behavior is normally only partly successful. Alternatively, stopping the behavior (e.g. with a cribbing strap) without fixing the root cause of intense boredom may simply result in the horse developing alternative behavioral problems.