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There are many horse breeds (hundreds) but they all fall into one of three categories: warmblood, coldblood or hot blood.

The cold blood breeds originated in Europe. They were bred for heavy work and long hours, pulling farm equipment, carts, barges and other heavy items. They had to have both power and endurance but there was little need for speed. Consequently, they were bred to have well developed muscles, on heavy bones and large joints. They also need to have a calm, even docile nature, so that they would obey commands and would not frighten and run off with farm equipment or other loads. In response to the need to work in cold European winters, their tails, manes and coats had long, thick hair. The Shire horse and the Clydesdale are typical cold blood breeds.

The hot bloods are from warmer climates, in particular the middle-east, where they were bred for racing and riding. They have much lighter bodies, legs and joints than the cold bloods, as they are build for speed and distance rather than for raw power. Having been developed in warm regions, they have relatively short coats, manes and tail hair so that they can shed heat better. For the same reason, they have lots of blood vessels near the surface of the skin, to improve heat dissipation. All of these factors support their speed and racing success. Likewise, they are spirited horses with a desire to run, the very opposite of the calm and docile temperament of cold bloods. The Arabian and the Thoroughbred are classic hot blood breeds.

The warmbloods (or warm bloods) have characteristics between the cold bloods and hot bloods, both physically and temperamentally. Some, but not all, of the warmblood breeds were created by crossing hot blood breeds and cold blood breeds to produce a new breed, followed by selective breeding to retain the best characteristics of the warm and cold ancestry. They have an athletic build and speed, combined with intelligence and calm (but not docile) disposition. As such, they excel in sports such as show jumping which require not only physical speed but also intelligence, a settled disposition and trainability. Examples are the Friesian and Hanoverian breeds.

These three terms (cold, hot, warm) of course refer to their climate of origin and their temperament, not to the temperature of their blood. All horses have approximately the same body and blood temperatures (about 38C or 100.5F) and as mammals they are all ‘warm blooded’ from a biological classification perspective.

Over time, the requirements for horses changes. As farm work has been taken over by tractors and transport by cars, the breeding objectives have been more towards sports and pleasure riding. In this environment, the warmbloods (and perhaps to a lesser extent the hot bloods) have been somewhat more successful that the cold bloods. Fortunately, a number of cart pulling and other heavy sports have been created to support these breeds. In addition, the calm and stable nature of the cold bloods has made them particularly popular with many children and less confident horse riders.

Although it does depend on individual circumstances (e.g. whether you are an experienced trainer or not), most people buying a horse are better off getting a fully trained horse. If you are intending to use a horse just for basic riding, it is advisable to buy one already trained in the basics; if you are using a horse for advanced riding consider getting one already trained to the advanced level. Likewise, if you are using it for show jumping, get one which is already trained in show jumping.

It is of course possible to buy an untrained or partly trained horse. The obvious advantage of an untrained horse for sale is that it will be less expensive than a trained horse. Also, you can have the horse trained exactly the way you want by your choice of instructor, and have the pleasure of being part of this. However, there are a number of substantial disadvantages, such as:

• Training Expenses. With an untrained horse, training is an additional cost which one has to factor in. Aside from the direct costs of the trainer, unless the trainer comes to you there is the additional cost of transporting the horse to the trainer for each lesson, or stabling the horse with the trainer. The exact costs of training depend on individual circumstances, but they are under-estimated far more often than over-estimated. Frequently, once one factors in the final total training costs, it would have been cheaper to have purchased a horse that was already trained.
• Accidents. Occasionally there are accidents during training, even with good trainers, especially during early training when the horse is less predictable. Even in the case of minor accidents, there may be vet costs.
• Incorrect Training. Some trainers are not as good as others. In addition, many trainers will rush training or under-estimate the amount required, to get the contract at an acceptable price. This may result in an incompletely or incorrectly trained horse.
• Feel. Two horses, trained in exactly the same way, will provide a different riding experience due to individual differences. Horses differ due to breed, build, training and individual genetics. Consequently, how comfortable you will be riding a horse is more predictable with an already trained horse than with an untrained one.
• Health Check. It is easier to evaluate the health of a trained horse than an untrained one, as one can ride it and also watch it while being ridden in each gait. With an untrained horse, health checks are not quite as complete.

Because of these factors, buying an already trained horse is often less expensive, less risky and less stressful than buying an untrained or partly trained horse and then having it trained up.

Although some people purchase a horse with the idea of training it themselves, this is inadvisable unless one is an experienced trainer (or working closely with one). Novice trainers can easily give the horse bad behaviors or habits, which are expensive and difficult to correct.

You should also be wary of buying a partly trained horse based on the seller’s commitment to fully train it. Having made the sale, many sellers will rush the training and cut corners, in order to minimize their costs and receive payment as soon as possible. One should only make a purchase commitment when the horse is fully trained and you have ridden it to ensure that you are completely satisfied with the result.

Wood chewing is a common horse problem which not only damages wood but can also injure your horse. The splinters can get stuck in the teeth or gums of the horse. If swallowed, they could puncture the stomach or intestines. Consequently, to protect your horse and your property, one should correct this habit as soon as possible.

The first step is to confirm that the problem is really wood chewing and not the more serious issue of horse cribbing. In wood chewing, the horse is nibbling on the wood. Cribbing is completely different; the horse does not eat the wood but instead grabs the wood with its front teeth, arches its neck and then sucks in air. As the two activities are very different, observation can confirm which problem your horse has. Alternatively, examination of the wood should show if it has been damaged by nibbling or damaged simply by a firm bite.

Wood chewing is a habit which usually results from boredom. One finds it most often with horses which are confined to their stalls much of the day, who start chewing wood as there is nothing else to do. A less common cause is stress or nervousness, again most common with boxed horses which do not have sufficient exercise or space to work out nervous energy and consequently start chewing wood to distract themselves. A third cause is nutritional deficiencies; if a horse is not getting all the minerals they need.

It can be difficult to know which of these three possible problems is the cause of wood chewing by an individual horse. In this case, the simplest approach is to address all three possible causes. Give the horse as much pasture time, exercise and mental stimulation as possible. Try to provide it with grass and hay rather than grain or muesli, so that it gets more food stimulation and satisfies its natural drive to chew. Try to identify any causes of stress (such as bullying by another horse) and fix the problem. Ensure that the horse has good access to a salt lick and mineral stone in case there is a nutritional cause.

With the above steps, one should quickly see a reduction in wood chewing activity. Unfortunately, once a horse has been chewing wood for some time, it becomes a habit and continues even after the original cause is removed. Consequently, in addition to fixing the habit, one also needs to take steps to break the habit.

One does this by actively preventing the horse from chewing on wood. Putting a live fence wire on top of fencing rails will prevent chewing there. A metal strip on wood surfaces in the stall (e.g. stable door) will make chewing difficult. One can also use one of the speciality paints which have been developed to taste bad; simply paint these on the wood surfaces to discourage chewing. Note that such paints need to be redone every few weeks since the taste fades and that one should first check that any such paint has been veterinary approved.

It is important to do both these steps: address the cause and discourage the activity. If one treats the cause (e.g. boredom) but not the behavior (e.g. with unpleasant tasting paint) the habit may diminish but is unlikely to stop. Alternatively, treating the behavior (with unpleasant paint) but not the cause may stop the horse from chewing wood but the horse may then develop a different behavioral problem in response to the continuing underlying problem.

Horses are incredibly sensitive and it is important that they get the care and attention they deserve. It’s not enough to only provide the bare necessities like food, shelter and whatever healthcare your horse insurance policy will cover. Like humans, it is those little extras that they need to be truly at peace with their place in the world.

It’s best to keep your horse among other ponies or horses, as they are herd animals in nature and will need to have company. Your horse should see you, as his owner, as part of the herd, and preferably as herd leader. Your horse may give you signs – such as chewing or licking – that he sumbits to your leadership. The development of trust and a lasting emotional bond with your horse relies on you spending quality time with your horse. When this is achieved, it will have a positive effect on all areas in the horse’s handling and riding.

Horses are clean animals, so ensure that their stable/stalls are clean and warm, with deep bedding. A deep bed will ease the strain on their legs and joints, and of course, if they wish to lie down, they can in comfort, ensuring that they feel safe and secure.

It’s important to get the feeding right with horses. As they will be grazing outside during the day, horses should be fed little and often. Incorporate a variety of appropriate foods into your horse’s diet in order to provide a balance. Your horse needs lots of fibre for his digestive system, so lots of fresh grass or hay is essential. Grain is excellent too, but be careful of overfeeding this as it can cause an upset stomach. Water should be freely available to your horse. Water allows the food to ferment so it doesn’t become solid and hard in the horse’s rear gut. Regularity of feeding times is important for horses, as they do best when in a routine. They need to be fed at the same time every day.

Grooming your horse daily will show the horse that they are loved – they will enjoy extra attention from you which grooming brings. Make sure you do lots of rubbing, scratching and brushing. This is such an enjoyable part of the day for both of you. Grooming will also help to keep their coat in good condition and free from pests. Also on a daily basis you need to pick your horse’s hooves. They must feel comfortable on their hooves or they will become grumpy, not to mention that failing to take care of your horse’s feet will put him at risk of injury or infection which could cost you a claim on your equine insurance.

The happiness of any equine relies largely on exercise. Horses need plenty of daily exercise. Varied exercise will stop your horse becoming bored; you could include jumping and cross-country elements, for instance. On the other hand, also let your horse have play time. Turn your horse out so he can run free for a while in the paddock. They can then mix with other horses, play, and also have some quiet time to themselves. It is essential that horses are allowed to relax as well as perform training tasks, otherwise their behaviour can become erratic.

The above tips are just a few pieces of advice which can help you look after the physical and pscychological needs of your horse. For more information and to become part of a horse-lovers’ community on the world-wide web, please visit AFI Horse Insurance where you can read and contribute to our brand-new equine blog.

When considering a new horse, one should check its health before making any commitment. A veterinary’s advice (preferably one specializing in horses) is useful in this regard. There are also a number of checks which you can do in order to identify most of the potential issues.

One begins with the general external appearance. The coat should be even, shinny and lie flat. The body should be well filled out, with well toned muscle. It should not be overweight or underweight. It should stand evenly on all four legs, with all four hooves pointing straight ahead. It is normal to rest a hind leg (but not a front leg), provided that it is not always the same leg which is rested.

Run your hands slowly down each leg, feeling for any swellings, bumps or hot spots. Give special attention to joints and the bottom of the leg. Check that each hoof is smooth, even and crack free.

Lift a hoof and check the sole for correct shape and any indications of previous injury; then repeat with the other three hooves. The angle and tilt of all four hooves should be correct and identical. If the horse is reluctant to lift a foot, it could just be lack of training, but may well be that it does not want to put more weight on another hoof, which would indicate an injury (to hoof, leg or spine). If you are unsure on any of these points, ask a professional farrier or blacksmith to perform the examination. In terms of horse health, remember the old saying about the importance of hooves ‘No hooves, no horse”..

Check that the gums are shinny, moist and pink. If you press gently on the gums they will turn white, but should return to the normal pink color within two seconds of you removing your finger.

Check the teeth (you may want the advice of a horse dentist for this area) for wear, unevenness or spurs. If all looks fine, give the horse about 5kg (10lb) of hay (hay is a good test as it requires a lot of chewing) and watch how the horse eats. It should eat steadily, using both sides of its jaw equally, without dropping any food or leaving any hay incompletely chewed. Although this is not a conclusive test of dental health, it can identify some potential issues.

Examine the horse’s droppings. They should consist of firm balls, with a mild and inoffensive odor.

The horse should appear alert, interested in things around it, and happy. It should move its ears in response to noises and hold them in an upright position.

Have the horse taken to an exercise ring and exercised at all gaits (e.g. walk, trot, and gallop). It should take easy, smooth strides of equal length and with the weight evenly spread on all four legs. It should not favor any leg. Circle the horse in both directions (left inside and right inside) to make sure that it performs equally well in both directions.

The horse should not sweat (except during hot weather) or breathe hard until it has been worked at a fast gait. As it speeds up, there should be a gradual but moderate increase in respiration. As it slows down, the respiration should quickly follow. Once its stops, it should quickly return to its resting heart and respiration rate. It should not show any sign of discomfort or limping either before or after vigorous exercise.

One should also ask the current owner about the medical history and ask permission to discuss the horse with its regular vet. Ask to see the inoculation and medical records for the horse. Ask if it has every had any illness, in particular colic or laminitis. Be concerned about any incomplete or evasive answers.

Training a horse can only start after you have first caught him. When you first attempt this you may be surprised at how frustrating it can in fact be. This step is of primary importance when training your horse. The foundations of trust are laid in this step. During each stage of horse training remember the importance of using the three P's - patience, persistence and positive reinforcement. Each step of horse training will involve the use of these three elements.

You will be more efficient in approaching your horse if the enclosure you use is of a manageable size. A round pen is ideal, but if you don't have one a paddock or other large fenced enclosure will work.

To begin with, use a casual demeanour to approach the enclosure. You should try hard to relax and remain calm. Don't allow your stress to enter the pen with you. Any stress or aggression will intimidate a horse easily, as in nature they are prey animals. This represents a possible threat and the last thing you want is for your horse to see you as a threat. Trust needs to be built between you and the horse.

Go in with the horse but not to catch him yet. This will happen in good time. Your aim for now is to familiarize yourself with the horse and more importantly, for the horse to become familiar with you. Walk inside and just stand around for a couple of minutes. Don't look straight at the horse. Predators eyeball their prey and stare into their eyes to intimidate them. A predator you are not, and your horse must know this. You must be seen as part of the herd.

Take a fork or rake into the enclosure next time and just tidy up a little. Check the gate to see it's in tact. Do anything but approach the horse at this point. The horse will approach you eventually and will want to see what you are doing. Horses are curious animals by nature. When the horse realises it's you again, he will come to check you out with a good sniff.

This first step can take a long time if the horse is unfamiliar with human contact. There are some horses who will not feel too shy and approach immediately. Either way is acceptable. The trust is built when you allow the horse to become accustomed to you in his own time, whatever time that may be. Patience!

Don't see this as an opportunity to grab the horse. Bear in mind that patience here is the key. It can take a long time to build this foundation for training and a lasting bond with your horse. Rushing this step simply will not work.

When the horse at last approaches you, turn your back and walk away. Make sure that you walk away before your horse does. By walking away first, you will indicate that he is not in charge of you.

Once you feel that you and your horse are comfortable in each other's presence you can approach your horse from the side. Walking slowly, remember to also have a loose and relaxed posture. Stepping sideways can be a good approach for a skittish equine. Go toward the side and don't stare. Glancing sideways, move towards your new friend. Never sneak up on or surprise your horse with the halter. What will you do to hang on to the horse once you "catch" it if it's frightened? Your mutual trust will be breached and you'll have to start all over again. You could also be seriously hurt. Have both patience and persistence.

When the horse allows you to come close, it's time for positive reinforcement. You should try to forget about training at this point. This step is about bonding. Simple grooming, brushing, scratching behind the ears, conversation, stroking along the neck area are positive reinforcement tools. This first interaction should be enjoyed by your horse. The two of you will now be ready for training.

A note on safety around horses:
Never approach a horse from behind unless you are very familiar and the horse knows you. A swift kick can connect long before you can contemplate moving away. Horses are much faster than humans, particularly if they feel threatened or surprised. Always approach where you can be seen.

Whether it is your own horse, or you are training the horse on somebody else’s behalf, it is always advisable to ensure that there is adequate equine insurance in place to protect you both should an accident occur during training. Horses, while very beautiful animals, are strong and powerful with the capability of delivering an incredibly debilitating kick. A good horse insurance policy will include third party liability, and it is definitely worth checking this before you begin with your training.

Laminitis is a serious and common disease of the hoof. Although it is rarely fatal, in serious cases the horse is put down either for humane reasons (the horse is in pain and permanently crippled) or economic reasons (the horse can no longer be used for its intended purpose). Such cases of euthanasia are sufficiently common that laminitis is the second most common cause (after colic) of premature death in domestic horses.

The term ‘laminitis‘ refers to damage to the ‘laminae’, which is the connective tissues between the hoof bone (also known as the pedal bone) and the hoof wall. In mild cases of laminitis this tissue becomes inflamed and starts to break down. In more severe cases this connective tissue is sufficiently damaged that the hoof bone separates partly or completely from the hoof wall, rotating and sinking within the hoof. In extreme cases, the bone will actually penetrate the sole of the hoof. As the bone moves, it may also tear blood vessels and other tissues. Longer term, the damage to the hoof can result in permanent damage to the hoof growth and repair mechanisms, resulting in abnormal growth (e.g. flat or convex sole, rings in hoof wall, separation between hoof wall and sole).

The term ‘founder’ is associated with laminitis but can be used in several different senses. Some people use founder as the lay term for laminitis, while others use it to describe the more serious forms of laminitis (e.g. when the pedal bone penetrates the sole).

There are two main sources of damage to the laminae, leading to laminitis. One is toxins, which enter the blood and travel to the laminae, where they cause inflammation and tissue breakdown. The other is mechanical, where the laminae is damaged due to repeated shocks to the hoof (e.g. from running or jumping on hard surfaces).

Excessively rich feed results in changes to the bacteria population in the digestive system, causing the release of toxins by the bacteria. It occurs when a horse has too much carbohydrates or nitrogen, either from excessive amounts of rich feed (e.g. grain) or lush pasture. Pasture is most likely to be excessively rich in spring, when rain follows a drought, or if it has been fertilized. As some breeds (in particular, ponies) are more sensitive than others, one should take special care with sensitive breeds to restrict the amount of rich food and to keep them off rich pasture. Alternatively, one can put them on pasture for a limited time but use a grazing muzzle to restrict the amount they eat.

For both competition horses and pleasure horses, one should try to avoid working them on hard ground, as the repeated shocks can cause mechanical damage to the laminae. When travelling over hard surfaces, try reducing the pace as there is less shock when walking than when running. Shock absorbency can be improved by correct trimming, especially avoid trimming for long toes or over-trimming. Ensure that shoeing is done by a competent professional, if the horse is shoed. Consider the use of shock absorbing shoes (they have a rubber component) or shock absorbing boots, both of which are being increasing used, even during professional competitions.

The third major cause of laminitis is toxins which are unrelated to overly rich feed. This includes toxins which are ingested (e.g. through moldy hay, or grass which has been treated with herbicides) or toxins which are produced due to an infection within the horse. Ensure that food does not contain fungus, mold or chemicals. Ensure that any infections are promptly and aggressively treated, before they can result in toxin overload leading to laminitis.

People can be allergic to many things and some people are allergic to horses. Depending on the person, this can result in one or more of the following symptoms:

• Itchy or watery eyes
• Itchy or running nose
• Itchy skin, hives or rashes
• Sneezing or coughing
• Difficulty breathing
• Asthma attack

The severity of these symptoms varies from person to person, ranging from a slight itch to a serious asthma attack. People with asthma should be careful when they first come into contact with horses as there have been a number of cases of fatal asthma reactions. In particular, asthmatic children coming into contact with horses for the first time should be carefully monitored to see if they have an adverse reaction and their medication should be available to hand in case that they do.

The most common cause of horse allergies is horse dander (bits of hair and skin which flake off, like dandruff). Other common causes include horse mites, urine and even horse salvia.

One can easily have an allergic reaction without touching or being close to a horse. If one enters a barn or other enclosed area which has been recently used to hold horses, one can have a reaction to allergic agents which remain even though no horses are present at the time. Likewise, if one has a friend or family member who rides, it is quite possible to have a reaction when coming into contact with their riding clothes, tack or even their hair as allergic agents can easily be rubbed into these.

Fortunately, there are a variety of treatments for horse allergies. These range from treating the symptoms using medications, to desensitizing treatment, to simple avoidance.

If you wish to ride but are allergic to horses, you may wish to try the Curly Horse breeds as many people who suffer from horse allergies find that they are not allergic to these breeds.

Finally, you could try medical testing or trial-and-error to determine which aspect of the horse you are allergic to and then simply take care to avoid this aspect. For example, if allergic to urine, rather than go into the stable to get your horse, have it brought out to you. As another example, if allergic to horse mites, have your horse and its box treated against mites, which should greatly help.

When looking for a horse, the desired horse age is an important consideration. Horses which are too young lack maturity and training while horses which are too old cannot provide many future years of riding. Following is a review the typical advantages and disadvantages of the various ages.

Horse of 4 years. Horses typically start training at 3 years, with basic training complete by age 4. Such a horse is old enough for riding immediately but still young enough for advanced training if you wish. Although it may be a bit more expensive than a younger horse, the difference is partly offset by saving the fees on basic training.

Age 5 to 7 years. In this category one can get a horse which is fully trained rather than just basic training. In addition, partly due to its age and partly due to the additional training, it will be a calmer and more reliable horse, less likely to spook. As such, it is more suitable for inexperienced riders and children.

Over 7 Years. Older horses are increasingly calm and dependable. Consequently, the older horse is great for children and new riders. They are also less expensive to buy as they are less popular. If the horse is not too old and has been well treated, it should still have many years of riding left. However, one would not want to purchase a horse which is too old for the number of years you intend to ride it.

Three year old. This is the age when riding training normally starts (depending on the breed, individual horse and owner). As such, one can have the pleasure of seeing the horse trained yourself. However, if you are buying a horse primarily to ride or have limited time, an already trained horse may be more suitable.

Less than 3 years old. Watching a horse grow up can give immeasurable pleasure, something like watching young children mature. However, like young children, it can be difficult to predict how they will turn out physically and otherwise, so a foal is more of a gamble than a mature horse. Although foals are less expensive to buy than mature horses of the same quality, once one adds in the cost of stabling and training before it is ready to ride, they are usually more expensive in the end.

The above is a general guide only. Various breeds mature at different rates, as do individual horses. Owners also vary in terms of the timetable and extent of training they provide to their horses. If you intend to compete with the horse, you need to take into account various applicable age restrictions as well as the competitive requirements in terms of timing and intensity of training.

First-time horse buyers often look closely at the cost of buying a horse and will by influenced by a few hundred dollars difference in the purchase price of different horses. What they don’t realise is that keeping a horse is far more expensive they buying one.

This ignorance is in part the fault of people working in the horse business as breeders, dealers or trainers. After all, if a potential client is unsure if they can afford to buy a horse, telling them that owning it is even more expensive is a good way to lose the potential sale. Of course, some sellers are honest enough to explain this, but far from all.

If a friend is looking to buy a horse, you may want to help them determine what their costs would be. Of course, these costs will depend on their actual circumstances. Here is how you can do an approximate calculation.

First of all, ask if the horse will be stabled with someone else or will be stabled with them. If stabled with someone else, then phone around to see the monthly costs of stabling (including bedding, food and labour) as this will be the main monthly expense. Depending on where one lives, monthly stabling can be as little as 0/month or over 00/month. In general, the more urban an area is, the more expensive stabling is.

Alternatively, if you keep the horse yourself rather than using a professional stable, you can save on these costs. However, you will still need to purchase bedding and feed, which will typically cost a minimum of 0/month. If you have lots of pasture, you can spend a bit less on feed. Keep in mind that 0/month is a minimum, in some areas bedding and feed (especially hay) can be far more expensive.

In additional to the regular monthly costs, there are a number of periodic costs: salt, minerals, wormers, annual dental check, annual innoculations. Medical insurance costs start at about /month. Of course, you don’t have to buy insurance but keep in mind that a serious illness (e.g. colic requiring surgery) or injury can cost thousands to correct.

Another consideration is how you use the horse. Riding the horse means that you will need to buy a saddle, tack and riding clothes. Showing or competing with the horse involves additional expenses.

All of this adds up to a considerable amount of money. For many people, the joy of owning and riding a horse more than makes up for it. However, before purchasing a horse, it is wise to look beyond the cost of buying to the cost of owning.