Saucy Pet

Posts Tagged ‘horses’

When looking for horses for sale, there are a few factors which are worth thinking about in order to make the buying process easier, and to ensure you end up with your dream horse.

• All horses have issues – just be sure that your chosen one has faults that you can put up with and that won’t lessen your enjoyment.
• Take an expert along, someone who is knowledgable of your capabilities and weaknesses. In an ideal world take someone experienced who is capable of spotting {whether the horse is lame} lameness or illness. Or perhaps your trainer who can tell if the selected horse is suitable for the way you ride – your level of skill and confidence.
• Always check the horse’s documets and passport.  A horse passport is not legal proof that your chosen horse is actually owned by the person selling it so ask to see a receipt to prove purchase. It is against the law to sell or purchase a horse minus a passport.
• Ask if all vaccinations are current. A course of innoculations can cost a lot of money and take many months to come into effect before you can compete.  You will not be popular moving a horse to a new horse if it is carrying an illness with it.
• Once a decision is made, ask a vet to carry out the highest inspection that you can buy. Do not let your heart rule your head or be pressured into buying if you believe you need the horse checked out by your vet.
• Where possible watch your chosen horse or pony carrying out the trials you would like it to do. Retraining a horse adds a considerable amount to the total cost if you cannot do this yourself.
• Try to negotiate a test loan in which the horse can be sent back if it is not suitable.
• Make sure you are realistic when purchasing a youngster, do you have the necessary knowledge to bring it on. Looking at it differently, a more mature horse may just have the character and experience to give you confidence and help you learn you the ropes.
• Don’t feel you have to buy the first one you see and don’t be pressurised by the multitudes of other people that are waiting to buy the horse if you don’t – very often this is just a ruse to rush you into an impulse purchase. Take your time when buying a horse.
• Once the sale is agreed take out insurance on the horse before you consider transporting it.  The majority of injuries occur during transit or whilst introducing a horse into a new yard with new companions.
• Trust your judgement – if you believe the seller is hiding something from you then they most probably are. 
• Be mindful that your horse is a huge investment of both your time and your money – be sure you have budgeted accurately for all the expenses that you are likely to encounter. 

Finally, have fun with your new addition and look forward to many hours horse riding together!

Taking care of hooves is a crucial part of looking after your horses overall health. You should look at your horses hooves each day, and at least two to three times each week.  You should become familiar with what is normal and what isn’t, and be able to to notice any problems that might be starting. 

Following this simple guide will hopefully assist you in your daily practices.

1. Looking at your horse ensure the symmetry is releatively close, they do not have to be perfectly equal, but very close to the same size and form. 

2. Examine for defects in the hoof wall and coronary band.  Raise up each hoof, run your hand over the exterior of the wall to pickup any impairments.  Apply the exact procedure for the coronary band and then press it gently. Applying these two procedures will also show tender spots and water bearing areas.

3. Examine the sole. Examine the colouring in each hoof. They should be the same in colouration.  A well defined dark spot should indicate a bruise or hole.

4. Look at and compare the frogs.  The two front hooves should be the sae size and shape and the same with the rear hooves. Try and lightly depress each frog with your hoof pick, mostly, with the exception of desert areas, it should be slightly spongy.

5. If already shod, grasp the shoe and see if it moves. Check for missing clinches, if the shoe is loose you might opt to take off the shoe before your horse loses it on its own and possibly takes a section of hoof with it.

If you regularly check each hoof, you can avoid a great deal of issues by catching the problem before it worsens.

It is recommended you work into your routiene a few quick steps. Use a pick from heel to toe.  If it is tightly packed you will probably need to loosen it up a touch before it is removed. Once the blockage has been taken out, examine all the areas of the hoof and be sure that there is not a bad odour as this is often a obvious indicator of thrush.  Be certain there aren’t any rocks or gravel embedded anywhere, even under the shoe.

Your horses hooves should show a natural gloss on the wall of the hoof. 

If you find a smooth level surface free of cracks, rings, dishes, flares and a concave sole that touches the horseshoe, then you can be positive that your horses hooves are in good condition.

For more horse information, horses for sale and more, please visit the Horse and Pony Directory.

Almost all horse injuries and illnesses (excluding sports injuries and mistreatment) are due to a small number of mistakes in the way horses are kept and treated. Here are the top 10 tips to avoiding these errors and protecting your horse’s health (in rough order of importance, beginning with the most important).

1. Start with a healthy horse

Our number one tip is to make sure when getting a new horse that it is healthy to begin with. There are a lot of horses which are cheap, or even free, because they have health issues;  avoid them as you are likely to spend more in veterinary costs and tears than you will save on the purchase price. Also, when looking at horses for sale, beware of sellers passing off a sick horse as a healthy one. Before buying a horse, put it through a horse health checklist. 

2. Food (type and quality)

Give your horse as natural a diet as possible. Feed grass when possible, with hay the next best alternative. Although old, weak or ill horses may need grain for some extra energy, for young and healthy horses the best choice is grass.

As well as feeding the correct type of food, ensure that it is of good quality. Never feed hay or other food which is moldy or has fungus. If feed gets wet, use it immediately (within a day) or throw it away. Bad feed can be a cause of serious illnesses such as colic or laminitis.

A mineral stone and salt lick should also be provided, to compensate for any deficiencies in the horse’s food.

3. Natural environment (pasture & herd)

Just as a horse should have natural food, it should spend as much time as possible in a natural environment. The two most important parts of this is that it should be on pasture as much as possible and that it should be part of a herd (i.e. with other horses or horse equivalents). Time on pasture gives the horse a natural diet (grass), a natural feeding regime (many small feeds throughout the day rather than a couple large and short feeds), exercise and mental stimulation. Being with other horses gives a sense of safety (horses have a very strong herd instinct) and the social interactions gives it mental stimulation.  

Horses which spend most of their time in this natural environment will be happier and more relaxed, with a corresponding decrease in the development of bad habits (such as head weaving or cribbing), which are generally associated with stress and boredom

4. Healthy stall

Especially if a horse spends a lot of time in its stall, the stall environment should be healthy.

• It should have enough ventilation that there is not a build up of ammonia (the harsh burning smell which is produced when bacteria break down horse urine on the stall floor).
• It should be big enough that the horse has a bit of room to move, say 4 yards by 4.
• It should have clean and suitable bedding. In particular, bedding which has gone off (mold or fungus) should never be used.

5. Safe pasture

The pasture should be free of any items which could injure the horse.

The most common cause of serious injuries to horses while on pasture is inappropriate fencing wire. Barbed wire should never be used and it can puncture the horse, causing not only injuries (which can be fatal if a main artery is hit) but also abscesses and other serious infections. High-tension wire should not be used either, since it can cut through flesh and tendons, especially if it breaks and becomes entangled around a leg. If fencing wire is used, it should be a wire which will break before causing serious injury and it should be under current to discourage horses from pushing against it.

If one is using a field which has not been previously cleaned, every bit of it should be closely examined for items which could injure a horse and such items removed. I’ve seen enough horses seriously injured from being put on an old farming field which had bits of fencing wire or pieces of machinery lying about. Likewise, holes (e.g. from burrowing animals) can result in a broken leg so should be filled in promptly. Similarly, broken branches or other objects lying around can result in injuries (especially if the horses are spooked at night, when they may not see the objects and consequently run into them).

There are a number of poisonous plants, which can make a horse ill or even kill it. Learn what types of plants are on your horse’s pasture and check if any of them are poisonous to horses. Most horses will avoid the majority of poisonous plants (unless there is nothing else to eat) so if you see a type of plant which the horses are not eating, one should in particular check that it is safe.

6. Preventative medicine

An ounce of prevention is better than a pound of cure. One should worm a horse regularly, give it the required inoculations, and have a regular (e.g. once a year) dental check. Worming requirements depend partly on where you live (parasite types and severity vary by region). Likewise the inoculations which should be given depend not only on the local areas (what diseases are present) but also on how you use the horse (e.g. if it is transported off your property and comes into contact with strange horses). Consequently, one should discuss requirements with a local veterinarian.

7. Watch and regularly inspect the horse

Horses, like people, will naturally become ill occasionally and may suffer accidents from time to time. In most cases, one starts with a minor problem which is easily (and inexpensively) treated if spotted early, but may become a major issue if left untreated.

One should watch a horse each day, and preferably twice a day, even if it is just for a few minutes. Learn what is normal behavior for that particular horse (e.g. running about or quietly grazing) and if there is a change to its normal behavior one needs to inspect the horse more closely. In particular, any signs of the horse appearing unwell (e.g. head hanging, inactive, stopped eating) or unhappy should be checked and monitored until the cause is found and corrected, with veterinary assistance if the situation becomes worse or is already serious.

Certain illness (e.g. impaction colic, laminitis) can often be treated successfully if done so promptly, whereas waiting less than a day after the first visible symptoms can result in a maimed or dead horse. Regular observation and prompt treatment are the key to so many illnesses.

One should clean and examine the sole of the hooves each day. In part this is to remove stones, ice chunks or other items which can damage a hoof. However, an equally important part of this daily routine is that it enables one to spot hoof issues early. Likewise, regular grooming is important not only because a clean horse looks better but also because it provides an opportunity to closely examine all parts of the horse for injuries or other abnormalities.

8. Shelter

Horses should have shelter from excessive cold, rain or wind. A simple shelter, open on one side facing away from the prevailing wind, can greatly increases the horse’s comfort. Alternatively, when the weather is very bad, it may be necessary to remove the horses from pasture and paddock and put them into their stalls.

The amount of shelter a horse requires depends on the local environment (how extreme the temperature gets locally) but also on the horse. A strong and healthy horse, which is neither very old or very young, will be much more resistant to weather extremes. Likewise, certain breeds (especially if they have a long coat, which has not been trimmed or had the coat oils removed by frequent washing) are more resistant than others. One needs to provide a level of shelter which is appropriate to the individual horse and the current weather. One should also consider a horse rug for horses which are very old, very young, sick, weak or prone to illness. One may also consider a fly sheet, which not only increases the horses comfort but also reduces the risk of sweet itch, eye infections (if a fly mask is used) and other illnesses which can be transmitted by biting or blood sucking insects.

9. Breed and individual requirements

Each breed has its own special requirements. For examples, many breeds are prone to laminitis and consequently should have only limited access to spring grass. Other breeds may have specific issues and require special treatment (e.g. many Appaloosa are night blind and consequently are more likely to run into fencing if left out at night). Learning about your breed’s strengths and weaknesses from a medical perspective will allow you to respond accordingly.

Likewise, each horse is an individual. Some are more weather resistant than others. Some are more prone to colic or other illnesses. As you watch and live with your horse, learn about its special needs and treat it accordingly. For example, if it is allergic to dust, one may need to soak its hay in water or buy low-dust feed. If it looks unhappy and uncomfortable in cold weather, one should consider taking it under shelter or providing it with a rug, as you may be looking at an early warning for a potential illness (e.g. cold-induced colic or a cold-induced lung infection). Taking account of your horse’s medical history and behavior as part of your horse management program will help keep it healthy and happy.

10. Continue to learn

Nobody knows everything about horses and everyone started out knowing nothing. However, if you educate yourself and continue to learn, you will be able to take better care of your horse, avoiding problems when possible and otherwise treating them promptly and correctly.

Curly horses have a certain gene which causes their hair to curl. In addition to curls in their coat, they may have curls in any or all other hair (such as the tail, mane, or even eyelashes). The growing popularity of this group of horses is due to:

1) Hypoallergenic. Curly horses appear to be unique in that people who suffer from horse allergies generally have a reduced reaction to curly horses or no reaction at all.

2) Appearance. The appearance of these horses, due to the curls or waves in their coat, is not only unusual but many people find it exceptionally attractive.

3) Feel. It is a special pleasure to groom and pet these horses, due to the soft and yielding feel of their coats.

4) Behavior. These horses are known for being unusually calm and sensible, characteristics apparently bred into their bloodlines.

The curly hair genes are found in all sizes of horses, from draft horses and standard horses, down to miniatures. They occur with all colors of horses and all builds.

There are many different types of curls, depending on the horse: fine pin curls up to large, heavy curls or simple waves. Some curlies are born with normal straight hair, in which case on only knows that they are curlies because their parents were and because they show other curly characteristics such as being hypoallergenic.

Consequently, there is tremendous variety in this group of horses. Curly breeders and associations are still working on defining the breed standard and implementing a breeding program based on this standard, in order that curly horses can be bred towards a standard type (one of the requirements for being recognized as an official breed). Therefore, if you thinking of buying a curly horse, the first thing to keep in mind is that there is no standard appearance for curly horses, so you need to look around to determine the type (size, color and amount of curl) which most appeals to you.

When choosing a curly, also keep in mind that the extent of the curl changes with age and also with season (it is most pronounced in winter). In summer, the hair is not only less curled, but is also shorter and thinner; in some cases the manes and tail hair are extremely short. If appearance is very important, before making your final decision you should see what the horse looks like (even if just from photos) in both winter and summer. You should also check the bloodline which the horse is from as an indication of how the coat will change as it ages (the nature of the changes vary from bloodline to bloodline).

If you are choosing a curly because these horses are hypoallergenic, be aware that the extent of this quality varies from horse to horse and that the benefit varies from person to person. Consequently, any combination of horse and person may exhibit no allergy, a reduced allergy, or the usual horse allergy. Therefore, one should test the person with the horse to determine the extent of the benefit. If one has extreme allergic reactions, take medical advice on how to do this test safely.

Other names for the curly horse include: North American Curly Horses, American Bashkir Curlies, and Bashkir Curlies. There are also a number of named bloodlines, each with their individual characteristics.

It is quite possible to buy a good horse for a low price at an auction, but there are often more problem horses than good horses so you need to be able to tell the difference. At most auctions, horses are sold ‘as-is’ and without guarantee, so if you find a problem afterwards you likely won’t be able to get your money back. Therefore, you need to do your homework in advance to pick out which ones meet your criteria, after eliminating the potential problems (e.g. injured, sick, bad habits, or behavioral issues).

If possible, get a catalogue of the horses on offer (so you can make notes) and arrive a few hours before the auction do that you have time to carefully look over the horses. A horse is a big investment, so it is worth investing time in making the right choice. Look at the horses as they are unloaded, eliminating any that appear overly difficult or that look unhealthy. As they are walked to the pens, they should walk easily and without any sign of lameness. If the horse appears frightened, scratch it off the list. On the other hand, if it looks apathetic and uninterested in its surroundings, it is likely sick or drugged, so remove it from the list as well. You are looking for a horse that is alert, perhaps a bit nervous (which is understandable in the strange surroundings) but well behaved.

Look at how the people unloaded the horses treat them. If they are the owners and are gentle with it, if is likely a well treated and well behaved horse, due to having received good horse care. However, if they are rough with the horse or hit it, then the horse may well have an abusive owner and resultant behavioral issues. Of course, one needs to know if the person handling the horse is the owner or not in order to decide how relevant this is.

Once the horses are unloaded, the next step is to go to where they are penned or stabled. Watch how the horses move and behave, eliminating any that have abnormal behavior. Look for any scars or blemishes, which can indicate previous injuries or mistreatment.

Through these various observations, you will normally have already eliminated most of the horses listed. With the remaining horses, try to find the owner so that you can ask about the horse. First ask the owner to tell you a bit about the horse. Once they have stopped talking, you can move to specific questions such as “What injuries and illnesses has the horse had?” and “What bad habits or problem behaviors does it have?”. Don’t forget to ask why the horse is being sold, particularly if the owner is full of nothing but praise for it.

At this stage, if you are still interested in a horse, ask the owner (or other responsible person) if you can examine it. If so, ask to have the horse removed from the pen to an area where you can check it over, since working in a pen full of strange horses is both distracting and potentially dangerous. Look the horse over closely. Carefully examine the feet (including the underside) and run your hands down the full length of the legs to feel for old injuries. Look at the teeth for excessive wear, loss or other issues. Put your thumb on one side of the spine and a finger on the other side and push firmly to see if the horse shows any discomfort or pain; starting at the shoulder repeat this for the entire length of the back. During your entire exercise the horse should appear alert but should not shown signs of aggression or fear.

If you find a problem during the examination, but not enough to eliminate the horse immediately, ask the owner to explain it. If you are not satisfied with the answer or don’t believe it, eliminate the horse. There will always be other horses and other auctions, so it is better to leave an auction without a horse than risk buying one which may have major issues. Once you have your final short list of horses, decide on a maximum price for each horse, as by the time bidding has started it is too late to think logically about this.

Before bidding on a horse, make sure that you have a place to keep the horse and to transport it there. If you haven’t made arrangements in advance, discuss with the auction staff if they know of a reputable person that can do this for you. At this point you should be prepared for the bidding. Good luck!

Colic is the single most important horse disease. It causes more horse fatalities than any other illness and even when horses fully recover it is the single biggest cause of major veterinary expenses. It can also cause other illnesses such as lminitis or founder.

There are many different types of colic and many different causes. Fortunately, the main causes have been identified by research, including studies which have covered thousands of colic cases. Following is a list of actions to avoid the main causes of colic and thereby greatly reduce the risk of colic and protect your horse’s health.

1) Feeding Frequency. Horses naturally eat small amounts throughout the day. A small number of feedings (e.g. 1 or 2 times per day) is inadequate for digestive system health. Provide lots of pasture time or feed frequently.

2) High-Volume Foods. Horses have evolved on high-volume and high-fiber foods such as grass. Although one can feed energy-dense foods such as grain or musli, they should not be the main component of the horse’s diet. When feeding both hay and grain, the hay should be first and then the grain, as this results in better digestion and reduced bolting of food.

3) Soak Pelleted Food. Unsoaked pellets (e.g. hay pellets) are more likely to be bolted and more likely to cause choke than soaked pellets. More relevantly, unsoaked pellets expand when they come into contact with stomach liquids and can thereby result in bloat and subsequently colic.

4) Protect Feed. Horses sometimes get into a feedroom and eat excessive quantities of food. Especially in the case of grain and related feeds, this can result in colic. It can also result in laminitis. Keeping the feedroom locked or using a horse-proof latch is wise.

5) Prevent Bolting. A horse may bolt (swallow without chewing) its food, potentially resulting in colic. This may be simply greed or a bad habit, but can also be due to medical issues such as dental problems. If your horse bolts, discuss with your vet how to correct this problem.

6) Sand and Dirt. Make sure that your horse does not ingest sand or dirt, as this can result in impaction colic. Do not feed them on top of sandy or dirt surfaces. Avoid over-grazed pastures.

7) Water. A horse which does not drink enough is prone to colic. Likewise, a horse that has not had access to water and then suddenly drinks a very large quantity. Ensure that your horse has access to water throughout the day. During winter, water should be warmed, as most horses will greatly reduce their water intake if it is too cold. After exercising a horse, allow it to drink but limit the quantity until it has cooled down.

De-worming. Horses should be de-wormed regularly (every 3-4 months). All the horses which share a pasture should be de-wormed at the same time to prevent cross-infection. If a horse has not been de-wormed for a long time, use a laxative a few days before to clear out the worst of the worm population before administrating a de-wormer medication.

9) Regular Exercise. Horses with insufficient exercise are more prone to colic. When starting an exercise regime, start gradually as rapid changes in the amount of exercise can result in colic.

10) Eating Bedding. Many horses eat bedding, particularly straw bedding. If your horse ingests a large amount of bedding, especially inedible beddings (such as wood shavings), change to a bedding type which they don’t eat.

11) Cold. Most horses can tolerate cold well, especially if they are young and healthy. However, if a horse becomes chilled (drop in body temperature) there is a good chance they will have colic. This is most likely when a period of mild weather is followed by sudden cold weather. It is also likely to occur when cold weather is combined with wet and windy weather. Allowing your horse to grow a long winter coat and protecting it with a rug during the coldest weather is adviseable. Special care needs to be taken with old, sick or weak horses which are less able to maintain body temperature.

If you are looking for a free (or very inexpensive) horse, one of the best places to look is rescue associations, or animal rescue groups which also deal with horses. These associations take on horses but have limited resources to take care of them in terms of space (stalls, pasture), money (food, bedding, etc.) and staff time (mucking out, general care). Consequently, they are normally looking for good homes to pass the horses onto, so that they can free up their scare resources to care for others. Therefore, they will usually pass the horses on for free, or for a nominal amount (to recover some of their direct costs).

In addition to getting a horse very cheaply, you are also doing a good deed by adopting the horse. In so doing, you free up the rescue association’s resources, allowing them to take on other animals. Another advantage is that rescue organisations are non-profit and consequently looking at what is best for the horse and new owner, so are more likely to be honest about potential issues and the suitability of the horse to your requirements than businesses offering horses for sale.

Of course, any rescue organization will want to be sure that the horse is going to a good home, before they consider giving it away. Expect to be interviewed to determine your fitness to take on a horse. Typical questions are whether you have the commitment, time, money and facilities (e.g. box and pasture) to take on a horse long-term. They will also want to know if you have the knowledge and experience to take care of a horse, or as a minimum that someone will work with you to teach you the required basics.

Before taking a horse from a rescue organization, you should learn as much about the horse and its history as you can. This will help you understand its capabilities (e.g. how much training it has), physical health, any behavioral issues, and any health concerns. In this regard, one should ask about the results of any veterinary examinations and the experiences of the staff when dealing with the horse while it was in their care.

It is also useful to know why the horse was rescued and what condition it was in when rescued. If the reason was economic (e.g. owner in financial difficulty) or practical (owner moving house and will no longer have facilities) then there are no implications. However, in the case of horses which were neglected or abused, there may be long term health or behavioral issues. Knowing the horses background can identify potential issues which may otherwise not be apparent.

Once you have a good understand of the horse’s condition and any possible associated issues, you can decide if the horse meets your requirements. For example, if you want the horse just as a companion, it does not matter if it is old or can no longer be ridden. However, if you want it as a riding horse, you will want one which is physically sound and well trained. It may well be that the association does not have a horse at the moment which meets your needs. In this case, the best course is to assure them that you will provide a good home to the right horse and provide the association with a written description of your requirements and your contact details. Unless your needs are very unusual, it is quite possible that in a few weeks or months the horse you are looking for will show up.

Cribbing is one of the various bad habits which horses can develop. It appears to develop as a result of boredom, in particular when a horse is confined to a stall for most of the day and has never been observed in horses which live in a natural environment (e.g. pasture based). With cribbing, the horse grabs an object (e.g. fence rail or feeding trough) with its front teeth, then arches its neck while pulling on the item, then sucks in air. Although the reason for this activity has not been proven, it is believed that the horse does it because it results in the release of brain chemicals (such as endorphins) which are pleasurable. The terms ‘crib biting’ and ‘wind sucking’ are also used.

Horse cribbing is sometimes confused with wood chewing but the two are different problems. A wood chewer simply nibbles on the wood, which is a habit that is easily treatable. A cribber pulls on wood (or other objects) while sucking air in order to release brain chemicals, which effectively makes it a drug addiction, and consequently much more difficult to cure.

The cribbing habit should be treated and cured promptly, partly to minimize the health effects, but also because the longer the habit continues the more difficult it is to correct. If not corrected, it will result in the teeth being worn down and damaged, resulting in dental issues. It also results in abnormal muscle growth in the neck, including thickening of the neck, a problem for show horses as well as any health problems. A number of illnesses, in particular colic, have been associated with cribbing since horses which crib are more likely to get colic. However, more recent research indicates that cribbing does not in fact cause colic; it is simply that horses that are confined for long periods to their boxes and have an unnatural diet are more likely to develop both colic and cribbing as a result.

As cribbing is mainly due to boredom, the primary treatment is to make the horse’s environment more interesting. Replacing stall time by as much pasture time as possible is generally very effective in reducing the amount of cribbing. Feeding it many small meals rather than one or two large meals per day, and feeding it chewy food such as pasture grass or hay instead of grain, are both very helpful. Any other activities which provide interest, such as exercise and grooming, also make a positive contribution.

Unfortunately, once the habit of cribbing has been established, removing the cause will only reduce the frequency but not completely remove the cause. One also needs to stop the behavior as well. This can be very difficult as the horse can crib not only on wood, but on any item which in can hold tightly with its teeth and pull on. There are a variety of techniques to address this but no one technique works with all horses, so you may need to try different techniques until you find one that works with your horse.

One common approach is a cribbing strap (also known as cribbing collar), which fits around the neck and holds a small metal plate to the underside of the neck, making cribbing uncomfortable. Alternatively, one can use a special muzzle which fits over the head, preventing the horse from reaching objects with its teeth but still allowing it to feed through the metal grill. Painting fence rails with a specialty paint which gives them a bad taste (use only the veterinary approved paints) will discourage cribbing on them, as will adding a fencing wire (with electrical current) to the top of rails. Some horse owners have also reported improvements with certain medications (e.g. anti-depressants for the horse). Finally, there is a surgical solution which involves cutting certain neck muscles and nerves to make cribbing physically impossible, although this should be seen as a final option.

One should do both activities, remove the cause of the behavior by providing more mental stimulation for the horse and also use one or more of the above techniques to discourage the behavior. Addressing the cause but not the behavior is normally only partly successful. Alternatively, stopping the behavior (e.g. with a cribbing strap) without fixing the root cause of intense boredom may simply result in the horse developing alternative behavioral problems.

There are many horse breeds (hundreds) but they all fall into one of three categories: warmblood, coldblood or hot blood.

The cold blood breeds originated in Europe. They were bred for heavy work and long hours, pulling farm equipment, carts, barges and other heavy items. They had to have both power and endurance but there was little need for speed. Consequently, they were bred to have well developed muscles, on heavy bones and large joints. They also need to have a calm, even docile nature, so that they would obey commands and would not frighten and run off with farm equipment or other loads. In response to the need to work in cold European winters, their tails, manes and coats had long, thick hair. The Shire horse and the Clydesdale are typical cold blood breeds.

The hot bloods are from warmer climates, in particular the middle-east, where they were bred for racing and riding. They have much lighter bodies, legs and joints than the cold bloods, as they are build for speed and distance rather than for raw power. Having been developed in warm regions, they have relatively short coats, manes and tail hair so that they can shed heat better. For the same reason, they have lots of blood vessels near the surface of the skin, to improve heat dissipation. All of these factors support their speed and racing success. Likewise, they are spirited horses with a desire to run, the very opposite of the calm and docile temperament of cold bloods. The Arabian and the Thoroughbred are classic hot blood breeds.

The warmbloods (or warm bloods) have characteristics between the cold bloods and hot bloods, both physically and temperamentally. Some, but not all, of the warmblood breeds were created by crossing hot blood breeds and cold blood breeds to produce a new breed, followed by selective breeding to retain the best characteristics of the warm and cold ancestry. They have an athletic build and speed, combined with intelligence and calm (but not docile) disposition. As such, they excel in sports such as show jumping which require not only physical speed but also intelligence, a settled disposition and trainability. Examples are the Friesian and Hanoverian breeds.

These three terms (cold, hot, warm) of course refer to their climate of origin and their temperament, not to the temperature of their blood. All horses have approximately the same body and blood temperatures (about 38C or 100.5F) and as mammals they are all ‘warm blooded’ from a biological classification perspective.

Over time, the requirements for horses changes. As farm work has been taken over by tractors and transport by cars, the breeding objectives have been more towards sports and pleasure riding. In this environment, the warmbloods (and perhaps to a lesser extent the hot bloods) have been somewhat more successful that the cold bloods. Fortunately, a number of cart pulling and other heavy sports have been created to support these breeds. In addition, the calm and stable nature of the cold bloods has made them particularly popular with many children and less confident horse riders.

Although it does depend on individual circumstances (e.g. whether you are an experienced trainer or not), most people buying a horse are better off getting a fully trained horse. If you are intending to use a horse just for basic riding, it is advisable to buy one already trained in the basics; if you are using a horse for advanced riding consider getting one already trained to the advanced level. Likewise, if you are using it for show jumping, get one which is already trained in show jumping.

It is of course possible to buy an untrained or partly trained horse. The obvious advantage of an untrained horse for sale is that it will be less expensive than a trained horse. Also, you can have the horse trained exactly the way you want by your choice of instructor, and have the pleasure of being part of this. However, there are a number of substantial disadvantages, such as:

• Training Expenses. With an untrained horse, training is an additional cost which one has to factor in. Aside from the direct costs of the trainer, unless the trainer comes to you there is the additional cost of transporting the horse to the trainer for each lesson, or stabling the horse with the trainer. The exact costs of training depend on individual circumstances, but they are under-estimated far more often than over-estimated. Frequently, once one factors in the final total training costs, it would have been cheaper to have purchased a horse that was already trained.
• Accidents. Occasionally there are accidents during training, even with good trainers, especially during early training when the horse is less predictable. Even in the case of minor accidents, there may be vet costs.
• Incorrect Training. Some trainers are not as good as others. In addition, many trainers will rush training or under-estimate the amount required, to get the contract at an acceptable price. This may result in an incompletely or incorrectly trained horse.
• Feel. Two horses, trained in exactly the same way, will provide a different riding experience due to individual differences. Horses differ due to breed, build, training and individual genetics. Consequently, how comfortable you will be riding a horse is more predictable with an already trained horse than with an untrained one.
• Health Check. It is easier to evaluate the health of a trained horse than an untrained one, as one can ride it and also watch it while being ridden in each gait. With an untrained horse, health checks are not quite as complete.

Because of these factors, buying an already trained horse is often less expensive, less risky and less stressful than buying an untrained or partly trained horse and then having it trained up.

Although some people purchase a horse with the idea of training it themselves, this is inadvisable unless one is an experienced trainer (or working closely with one). Novice trainers can easily give the horse bad behaviors or habits, which are expensive and difficult to correct.

You should also be wary of buying a partly trained horse based on the seller’s commitment to fully train it. Having made the sale, many sellers will rush the training and cut corners, in order to minimize their costs and receive payment as soon as possible. One should only make a purchase commitment when the horse is fully trained and you have ridden it to ensure that you are completely satisfied with the result.